2000 sea pro 190cc spec sheet

[Deleted]

I am buying a 2000 sea pro 190cc and would like to find out any and all specs about this boat. Can anyone tell me how to find info on it. I am having a very difficult (maybe impossible) time trying to contact manufacturer. Are they still in business? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

[T-Topless]

Great boat ... Sea Pro bought out by Brunswick and no longer producing boats, but Brunswick honoring warranty (yours has expired, but no problem - no wood since 1996). Many hulls now made under Trophy name by Brunswick.

Original web-site info:
RNR-Marine.com/SeaPro.shtml#SeaPro190cc

The 2000 Sea Pro 190 Center Console

The Sea-Pro 190 Center Console is a 19-footer with invincible offshore stamina, efficient performance, and sea-smoothing hull dynamics. The perfect choice for the skipper who demands maximum reliability and economy in a fishing boat. Like all Sea-Pro boats the 190 Center Console is loaded with standard features you'd have to pay extra for on most other boats. Features like stainless hardware, welded stainless bow and grab rails, (4) stainless flush mount rod holders, self-bailing cockpit, courtesy lights, deluxe center console with lockable electronics box and lockable storage compartment, aerated live well, overboard draining storage and fish boxes and much more. Sea-Pro 190, a versatile boat for the pro or family fisherman.

SPECIFICATIONS:
Centerline Length 18'5"
Beam 96"
Approx. Wt. 1750 lbs.
Fuel Capacity 56 gal.
Max. HP 150 HP
O/B Shaft Length 25"
Deadrise 16 deg.

STANDARD FEATURES:
White Gelcoat
Hand Laid Fiberglass Hull
7 Year Hull Warranty
Foam Flotation
Fiberglass Stringer System
High Density Composite Transom
Self-Bailing Cockpit
Aerated Live Well
Deluxe Center Console
- - - - Tinted Plexiglass Windscreen
- - - - Lockable Storage Compartment
- - - - Lockable Built-in Electronics Box
- - - - Deluxe Instrument Panel w/Fuel
- - - - - Gauge, Light Switch, Bilge Switch,
- - - - - (2) ACC Switches & Aerator Switch
Running Lights
Raised Casting Platform
Storage Compartment
Large Fish Box w/Overboard Drain
All Welded Stainless Steel Bow Rail & Console Rail
Stainless Hardware
(4) Flush Mount Rod Holders
(6) Vertical Rod Storage Holders
Deluxe Helm & Companion Swivel Chairs w/Cushions
Deluxe Non-Skid
Deluxe Sea-Pro Rolled & Pleated Upholstery
Battery/VRO Storage Compartment
Automatic Bilge Pump
Rubrail w/Insert
Anchor Rope Storage Compartment
No Feedback Steering
Stainless Steel Steering Wheel
Horn
Cockpit Courtesy Lights
Motorwell Bulkhead
Aft Seats w/Cushions
94 Qt. Cooler w/Cushion


OPTIONAL EQUIPMENT:

Cockpit Bolsters
Reversible Pilot Seat
Bimini Top w/Boot
Deluxe Washdown/Baitwell
Bow Cushion
Bow Casting Chair
Bow Lifting Ring
Bow Cushion
Troll Motor Panel
Recessed Rod Racks
Striper Bow Rail
Mooring Cover
Hydraulic Steering
Dual Steering
T-Top Frame W/Canvas Top, Rocket Launchers & Electronics Box
Compass
1/2 Swim Platform

Wiring diagram: RNR-Marine.com/Sea-Pro/Sea-Pro-Wiring-Schematic_1997aug13.jpg

[Deleted]

Thank You T-Topless. I have only one thing that makes me uncomfortable. I see on many newer boats "a bulkhead" in front of outboard engines. This boat does not have that feature. Many years ago my Uncle's boat without a bulkhead went down in rough following seas and he lost his life. I am thinking about building a wall (bulkhead) to keep out following seas. Is this a good idea or not necessary. I am a "safety freak" and do everything possible to protect anyone in my boat. Am I over re-acting?

[Simple Man]

Jul 13, 2012 8:58:08 GMT -6 @printer said:

.... Am I over re-acting?

Yes.
Any condition that would swamp that boat is not going to be stopped by any "bulkhead" that was added on.
It's going to take physical damage, a loss of power or skipper error to swap that boat anyway. Use good judgement when and where you go boating, have all needed safety equipment and you will be fine.
Just my 2 cents...

Oh and welcome to the forum.

[Deleted]

No Disrespect "Simple Man". But everything you mentioned can and does happen to boaters. "Physical damage, loss of power and skipper error". I don't think they changed the "style of the transom" just because it looks pretty. I have had boats for almost 50 years and have seen and unfortunately been in a few not so nice situations. I'm not trying to make the boat stronger with a "bulkhead" or "divider" in front of the OB engine, I'm just trying to prevent that "one in a million" bad situation from being a disaster. If you look at many of the early 1960, 1970 and 1980 outboard boats "many have installed a "bulkhead or divider" to stop a "nasty following sea".

[Deleted]

I think what simple man is tryin to say is, that a "bulkhead", placed the way you state, would be irrelevant in conditions severe enough to swamp a boat, especially one with a self bailing deck and an alert operator with his hand on the throttle, a "bulkhead" aint makin a difference. If you are looking for some added safety in following seas,maybe look into some trim tabs,

welcome to the Forum

[T-Topless]

Printer,

My 180cc is heavy in the back with the 200HP Yamaha (on a jackplate as well) , 2 batteries, etc.

The 180cc is setup for a 20" shaft (your 290cc is setup for a 25" shaft) as well, so the transom cutout is very low.

I too was nervous, after taking a few waves in the back while anchored, so I built an extension, about 4" high, out of King Starboard and added it above the transom (notched down to 2-1/2" or so around the motor. It keeps a lot of water out (water still comes in the scuppers if 2 people are right at the rear fighting a fish at anchor). I'll get some pix and upload them.

Not sure it helps me in a following sea, but it sure keeps waves out when anchored to fish in rough seas.

I think the 190cc is probably fine, but this might be a suggestion if you get the boat and it takes on some water from the rear. The scuppers with flappers should drain water much like the walled rear section of the boats you mentioned.

One thing to consider - if you add a 2nd "wall", will it have drain holes to drain water if you take a wave over the bow?

[Deleted]

If I install a "wall" of course I would notch the bottom to allow drainage. Thanks t-topless your suggestion sounds like a good idea. I would appreciate some pictures.

[T-Topless]

Here are a couple of photos (a little blue - evening) showing the transom extension I added to my 2000 Sea Pro 180cc to keep waves out while fishing at anchor. I also tilt the motor up just a little to keep it drier (not a lot).

1/2" King Starboard ... used existing screw holes ... 1-1/4" stainless screws into hull with 3M 5200. Looks factory original.

Heading out now to catch a few ...

[BoutTime]

Jul 13, 2012 9:50:37 GMT -6 Simple Man said:

Jul 13, 2012 8:58:08 GMT -6 @printer said:

.... Am I over re-acting?

Yes.
Any condition that would swamp that boat is not going to be stopped by any "bulkhead" that was added on.
It's going to take physical damage, a loss of power or skipper error to swap that boat anyway. Use good judgement when and where you go boating, have all needed safety equipment and you will be fine.
Just my 2 cents....

I second that..
I have a 2000 190 cc powered by a 115 Johnson ocean pro. I have been caught in some pretty nasty seas and have never had a problem. The scuppers do a fantastic job of draining water. I have even "backed-down" (which in itself isn't smart) on a fish and the water drains fast.

IF "following seas" is a major fear factor ( & I can understand your concern from your past experiences) maybe you should consider a boat with a full transom and bracket - just saying...

[Deleted]

Thanks for the photos T-Topless. That exactly what I'll be doing.
I am a big man also and so are my fishing buddies. I have always had larger boats 26 ft. or larger ALL inboards or IO's. Never had an outboard. BUT, I needed to downsize and am swapping my 26 for this boat. On the spec sheet you sent I noticed "Foam Flotation" (unsinkable?) and High density composite transom (got any idea what that is?)

[RunninLate]

Printer, I do not think that you will have a problem as long as you do not lose power. I have a 206 and we had a couple Cobia on and had to back down on the fish in 3 to 4 seas. Took a lot of water in the splash well and cockpit but as soon as we started moving forward the self bailing cockpit handled all the water. We must of had 20 to40 gallons of water in the boat.

Again, as long as you can have forward motion you should not have a problem. I know because I sunk an outboard 20 miles offshore because water came over the transom and shorted out the motor. The was no way to get the water to drain.

[T-Topless]

Jul 20, 2012 17:54:36 GMT -6 @printer said:

Thanks for the photos T-Topless. That exactly what I'll be doing ...
On the spec sheet you sent I noticed "Foam Flotation" (unsinkable?) and High density composite transom (got any idea what that is?)

Pretty easy add-on, and it does keep waves out when backing down (or with the extra transom weight in my case). We enjoyed having it at the Jetties Thursday - fishing anchored in steady 30mph winds with Pilot boats, sport fishers and container ships passing by throwing huge wakes. The Starboard is fun/easy to work with - just treat it like hardwood - cut/sand/drill.

Its funny, because Whaler owners brag about "The Unsinkable Legend", but ALL boats in this size range have been required by the gov't. to be unsinkable since around 1995/96.

The composite transom came into play around the same time - so there is no wood in any SeaPro since around 1995/96.

[Deleted]

THANKS T-TOPLESS. I feel much better knowing the boat will not sink. I still plan to install the transom board (like yours) as an additional safety feature. It sure beats spending hours of internet research when I can get the answers I need on this forum. I'll be a few weeks before I'm ready to fish. I have a couple of things to fix first. Fuel gauge not working. Engine is a 115 Johnson Oceanpro. When we took out for a sea trial (at the ramp) it started and stalled about 15 times, then it ran perfectly. I have a local mechanic I trust and am sure he will correct the problem. I'll do all the service and winterization necessary to keep it in good running condition. (already ordered service manual). I have to rewire trailer and change brake system from drum to disc. I'm retired and enjoy working on boats. Never used a mechanic before (never had an outboard either).

[T-Topless]

Glad to help. Good to get a mechanic until you learn more. 2-stroke outboards can easily be damaged by running too lean, advancing timing too far or improperly cooling upper cylinders.

FYI - you can get:

Free 2004+ Evinrude & Johnson Operator Guides:
www.johnson.com/en-US/Engines/Showroom/Operators.Guide.htm

Buy/Trade for Various 1972-2008 Johnson & Evinrude Service Manuals:
getpdfs.com/outboard.motors/johnson.evinrude/

[Deleted]

T-Topless: I noticed on the spec sheet you sent me "MOTORWELL BULKHEAD" was one of the features of this boat. I wonder if this boat is not a "2000" model. Am I missing something?

[T-Topless]

Interesting - not sure what that was. Sounds like what you proposed originally perhaps? Or what I made?

I like mine - when I'm anchored in 3-4' seas, I like having more than 4-6"of transom above the water.

[Deleted]

Got my boat today. It looks Great. I need to do a few things before I'll use it. (Starboard Job, fix gas guage, new wiring and lights on trailer) Replace T-Top canvass (anyone know where I can get a good buy)? I made an appointment with a friend and good outboard mechanic to have him go over everything and make sure there are no problems. He can't get to my boat till August 6th. Also thinking about "SMART TABS". Any comments? Also looking for "mechanics service manual" on 2000 Johnson 115 Oceanpro.

[T-Topless]

Congrats on the new boat!

Jul 26, 2012 18:59:53 GMT -6 @printer said:

... Replace T-Top canvass (anyone know where I can get a good buy)?
... Also thinking about "SMART TABS". Any comments?
... Also looking for "mechanics service manual" on 2000 Johnson 115 Oceanpro.

1) We sell the only factory original replacement T-Top canvas (plus spray-shields, gull-wings, gear-nets, console covers, mooring covers, etc.) for SeaPro, Sea Boss (and others), made using new Sunbrella (not new, old stock) using the original OEM factory patterns for an exact fit ... RNR-Marine.com/Canvas.shtml ($299, much cheaper than having a local canvas shop make them at $11-15 per sq ft + tax = $450-650).

2) Love the Smart Tabs - do a search here - there are 3 or 4 of us with them now. Had them for about 8 years.

3) Johnson/Evinrude Manuals:
Free 2004+ Evinrude & Johnson Operator Guides:
www.johnson.com/en-US/Engines/Showroom/Operators.Guide.htm

Buy/Trade for various 1972-2008 Johnson & Evinrude Outboard Service Manuals:
getpdfs.com/outboard.motors/johnson.evinrude/
readmanual.com/outboard.motors/johnson.evinrude/

[Deleted]

Thanks T-Topless. I'll be calling Monday morning to order my new top. The old top measures approx 50" wide and 76" long. It does measure about 50 and 1/2" across one end. Can I get it in "teal"? I think the t-top came with the boat when new. The water line stripe is Teal also. Please advise. Thanks again for all your help.