Please identify this hull

[Deleted]

Hi guys, can you please help me with identifying this hull.  I believe it might be a Sea Pro 18 or 19 footer but i'm not sure.  Any help you can provide would be amazing.

hull id: PIOCC937B595

[T-Topless]

HIN: PIOCC937B595

Yes, PIO was the USCG HIN Manufacturer's Identification Code (MIC) used on Sea-Pro boats from 5/91 to 5/2008 (when they were shutdown) www.uscgboating.org/recalls/mic_detail.aspx?id=PIO

the B595 at the end indicates it was built in February 1995 for the 1995 model year. The boat was built in the original Chapin, SC plant (pre 1997), and has wooden stringers and transom (pre 1997).

Its a 180CC or 190CC (SV1900, the 1st bay boat, didn't come out until 1998), but the seating/tackle doesn't look like the 180CC to me ... anyone else?

What does she measure?

Ref:
rnr-marine.com/seapro.SHTMl#180cc-specs
rnr-marine.com/seapro.SHTMl#190cc-specs

Here is the 2003 190CC layout:

[Deleted]

Thanks so much for your reply Captain Ross.

Just bought this one yesterday. The previous owner told me that it's a 18 footer. Haven't measured it myself yet.

What size engine should this carry? Currently it has a Merc 115.
What pros or cons exist for this model?
Are the wooden stringers and transom something I need to worry about?

[Juan]

Apr 13, 2014 20:40:54 GMT -6 @rra said:

Thanks so much for your reply Captain Ross.


Are the wooden stringers and transom something I need to worry about?

It would take a close inspection to answer that.. wood tends to get soft and rot when exposed to water for long periods..and is seldom used in boat construction these days but if the transom and deck are solid with no soft areas, you may not have any issues. Enjoy the new boat

[T-Topless]

Apr 13, 2014 20:40:54 GMT -6 @rra said:

Thanks so much for your reply Captain Ross.

Just bought this one yesterday. The previous owner told me that it's a 18 footer. Haven't measured it myself yet.

What size engine should this carry? Currently it has a Merc 115.
What pros or cons exist for this model?
Are the wooden stringers and transom something I need to worry about?

Engine? I'd put a 200HP on it Seriously - If the 115 is shot, I'd look for a solid, older 135 or 150 Merc 2-stroke, or go for a new E-Tec.

Pros? great boat - longest lived (1st boat made by Sea-Pro in SC) Sea-Pro hull - from 1989 to the 2008 186CC were much the same.

Cons? porpoises some at mid-speed due to rear tunnel opening.

Wood:

Trailer boats with wood have been around a long time and are usually fine. In fact, Boston Whaler and Grady White still use wood on some models.

If the boat has been left in the water, you might want to check it out more...

I have a boat that has been in the water since 1972 with wood stringers and balsa core decks - no problem. I visited a museum in Sweden with a ship (the Wasa) that was built and sank on its maiden voyage in 1628 - wood was still pretty solid.

[Juan]

Apr 14, 2014 6:44:20 GMT -6 T-Topless said:

I visited a museum in Sweden with a ship (the Wasa) that was built and sank on its maiden voyage in 1628 - wood was still pretty solid.

Did it have a 2 stroke or 4?

[T-Topless]

Apr 14, 2014 7:38:21 GMT -6 Juan said:

Apr 14, 2014 6:44:20 GMT -6 T-Topless said:

I visited a museum in Sweden with a ship (the Wasa) that was built and sank on its maiden voyage in 1628 - wood was still pretty solid.

Did it have a 2 stroke or 4?

I believe it was a 145 stroke - all 1 man-power units.

[Deleted]

Haha, you guys are crazy man...In a very good way. Thank you all so much for the information.

I will have the bottom sanded and new paint applied this week. Also I will look for spider webbing in the gelcoat (thanks @southern Cross for that).

I have a feeling that I will enjoy this boat and this forumn.

Thanks guys!

[Deleted]

Hello again Southern Cross, I went out to look specifically at the transom and took a few photos for you.  I'm new to it all, but is this really wood?  








thanks,
Ryan

[T-Topless]

Yes, it is wood inside the fiberglass. Sea-Pro used wood for transoms and stringers until 1997, when they moved to their new plant in Newberry, SC:

 

rnr-marine.com/seapro.SHTMl#History

Check you motor mounting bolts and make sure they are sealed on both sides with 3M 5200 marine sealant (and ALL thru-hulls).

[Deleted]

Hello Capt. Ross, I'm scheduled to have the bottom sanded and painted on Thursday of next week. How can I tell if 3M 5200 marine sealant was used?

[Deleted]

Hi Southern Cross, you are right, I live in a wonderful place, one of the most beautiful places on earth, Harbour Island, Bahamas.

Thank you for sharing that video. I was locked in and learned so much.  I'm going to watch the second part now. 

I will admit that the wood and potential for rot has me a bit paranoid now. 

[freezerfiller]

Don't worry too much about having wood, my brother had a boat that was made with wood stringers and transom. He had it for 20 years with no issues. 3M 5200 looks like white caulk, but is a polyurethane and is about the only material recommended to keep out water below the waterline. It usually discolors to off white in the sun, and is a lower viscosity than silicone, so it penetrates better. Look at any screws, drain plug, ladder bolts, etc. If you don't see any white sealant (can also be black, but not common) around them, it might be a good idea to remove, and put some 5200 in the holes before reinstalling. One note about 5200, it is notorious for being incredibly difficult to remove, so keep that in mind if you plan on removing something that is above the waterline. And welcome to the forum!

[Simple Man]

Apr 16, 2014 21:42:24 GMT -6 @rra said:

Hi Southern Cross, you are right, I live in a wonderful place, one of the most beautiful places on earth, Harbour Island, Bahamas.

Thank you for sharing that video. I was locked in and learned so much.  I'm going to watch the second part now. 

I will admit that the wood and potential for rot has me a bit paranoid now. 

I fly over the Bahamas about twice a month. Looks awesome from 40,000 ft too. I'll echo freezerfiller. I mean wood will obviously rot but there are MANY more boats made with wood components than without. You have already bought the boat anyway so it's too late to run away. Just monitor the transom condition and like mentioned seal off everything good below the waterline. It will be fine for along time if kept dry.

[T-Topless]

Apr 16, 2014 21:19:39 GMT -6 @rra said:

Hello Capt. Ross, I'm scheduled to have the bottom sanded and painted on Thursday of next week. How can I tell if 3M 5200 marine sealant was used?

Just reseal them - its old and can use a re-seal.

Never use Silicone. Silicone has no use in a boat. Its OK for a couple of years in your tub (until your kids pulls it out), but not on a boat. It doesn't stick to anything (a real basic problem when trying to use it a sealant), doesn't seal well, doesn't stay in place long, has no structural integrity and can never be completely removed from a surface (it gets in the pores) to apply any other sealant or paint (no chemical will cut silicone). It has to be sanded off in most cases, in order to paint (it will ruin paint applied over it if its not 100% removed).

Jealous of the Bahamas ... may move there for the winters in 2 years ... SC is too cold (and the fishing isn't too hot).