no power to the auxiliary switch panel

[Deleted]

Hello I have a 238 sea pro 2007 that has dual batteries with a 1, 2 1&2 switch.  I get power to the house and engine however I am not getting power to the auxiliary switches.  No manual bilge, horn, nav lights, acessories, etc. Where should I start? I do not see a fuse relay under the console.  Looks like the wiring is directly to the deep cycle battery.  Also on top of this, I keep popping 30 amp fuses that run from the relay switch.  Need some guidance here...

Read more: seaproforum.proboards.com/conversation/3052#ixzz36LpGUwQK

[yolo]

To make sure i am reading this right before i start sending you on a wild goose chase, i have an idea of what it is i just want to be certain:
1) Motor starts?
2) Anything wired direct to either battery or the battery switch (1 2 All switch) works?
3) Nothing, that is supposed to turn on when you flip those switches, turns on when you flip them?

Also, one more question, where is the 30amp fuse that you are blowing? You say relay switch, but im not sure i understand fully what you mean by "relay switch". Can you be a bit more specific?

If the boat is in your back yard or close to you. Go take some pictures of underneath that dash, may help me better walk you through things and start trouble shooting.

[Deleted]

1.)  I have not tried to start the motor, but I have power to the guages when I turn the key.  I do not have power to the auxiliary switch on the same panel as the gauges....  I looked inside the house at the gauge panel.  No loose wires and all connection are sercure to both the switches and the circuit breakers all except for one circuit breaker which happened to be the one with the primary red hot wire running to it. I bypassed this breaker just to see if the  next auxiliary breaker would come on.  To my surpirse it did for a short time then it went out.  None of the other breakers or switches came on.

2.)From what I can tell the yamaha cable goes into the 1, 2 switch with 3 red wires coming out of the switch. One of the 3 red wires is samll and has a fuse port built into it which is the actual 30 amp fuse the keeps popping.

3.) The bilge turns on when I flip the switches. Also I have 2 on/off switches bult into the house to run the electronics idenpendly from thr motor.

[Juan]

I'm still a little confused too but I'll try to elaborate on my first guess of a bad connection or fuse problem..
Question: when you say "auxiliary switch", are you talking about the 2 "Accessory Switches" on the control panel?
And if so, are those the only switches not working? If that's the case, they are wired in series, and if you have a bad breaker (or bad hot wire connection) that one and any wired in series after it won't work. (The breaker might reset and check out OK, and still be bad.)

[Deleted]

Well I found the problem! It was small red wire running to the switches from my 1,2 switch. This wire holds the 30 amp fuse. The connector that hold the fuse was not making solid contact with the fuse hence no power to the assesory switches. The reason not fully clear on why I'm popping 30 amp fuses I suspect a short in that wire. Since that wire ran to a blown circuit unit breaker under the guage panel. The is a short in the 30 amp wire. So I spent the time to replace the that wire completely. Now everything is working. Problem solved. Thank you for the guidance!

[CaptWoody]

Glad you found it.

[flhsblue]

Hello Attachment DeletedAttachment DeletedI recently bought a 1996 210WA and the boat runs great.  I have the same problem being that none of the toggle switches turn on any of the accessories (lights, horn etc.)  I am in the process of replacing several fuse holders and horn switch.  The gas gauge and amp meter come on when I turn on the ignition switch. Do you know if there is a positive and negative bus bar?  I do not get any power to any of the switches or fuses on the auxiliary panel.  I am using a test light to see if there is power.

I will take some photos of the bus bar under the dash and the auxiliary panel.

Ill start by looking for the red wire going from the 1,2 switch to the panel.

[yolo]

If all wires were consistent end to end (bat --> Switch --> Switch --> Switch ect.) I am not seeing a 10 gauge (or 12 gauge, cant remember off the top of my head which is used) running to the first switch in the series. Also, again not sure if this is exactly how its wired, i don't see any ground wires linking the switches. Assuming if you have a test light then you know a good ground from a bad one so it sounds like you might not have any power running to the switches or ground running from the switches. Also, first thing to check is at the battery, the main bus (power supply not bus bar) should have a fuse a few inches off the terminal connection to the battery. Go back there see if you can find a fuse and check to see that its good. If the main bus is there and no fuse, put one on; big enough to handle your load.

I have worked up a quick drawing to show you what it should look like in terms of the linked switches (i tried finding a picture online but i could not get one). In the picture, squares are switches, circles are fuses, all the electronics are dummy electronics (meaning they may not be applicable to you), green wire is groung (given ABYC changed the color of ground wire to yellow) and red is positive. Effectively you need a main bus (power supply not bus bar) running to the first switch. From there it looks from your picture like the switches are linked by 10 or 12 gauge jumpers. Then you need to do the same for ground. Run one main ground wire from the batt to the first switch and then jump them across linking them. Also, one correction to my picture. The ground should start on one side and the main bus (positive) on the other (protection from short if one falls off).




Without getting in there myself its really hard to say exactly whats wrong because i cant see everything but i hope i at least pointed you in some sort of direction. Good luck!

[CaptWoody]

As shown by yolo, Sea Pro does not have buss bars. The current is "Daisy chained" from one switch to the next. A break in the chain at any point will render all switches downstream dead. Use you test like and work your way down the line into you locate the break. Looks like you have lots of corrosion to deal with. Use dielectric grease on all fittings that you open up.

[flhsblue]

Thank you so much for your response.  I will follow your advice.  I did find the red and black wire coming from the battery. Ill work with them.  I am adding a photo of the buss under the dash.  The wire on the bottom right is actually a red wire.  I assume that is the positive bar?  the bar on top i assume is the negative?  This bar must bee to run anything not on the control panel?

Attachment Deleted

[flhsblue]

Thank you.  I will get some dielectric grease and add to all connections.  I will take each one off and clean them.
Are you familiar with CRC Marine 6-56 multi-purpose lube?  is it ok to spray into the toggle switches?

[CaptWoody]

That is a fuse block that can function as a buss bar for the positive cable. That was most likely added by an owner as I'm not aware of sea pro using them. A nice thing to have. It replaces the circuit breakers below each switch.
I'm not familiar with that lube.

[Juan]

The CRC 5-56 will work just fine.. good stuff... I prefer it over WD-40

[yolo]

The picture of the fuse block helps a lot more. Its great that they do this. The benefit of the fuse block over the bus bar is you dont need to add an in line fuse after every connection to the bus (That would protect the devices and wire).

If you don't mind I would like to make a quick recommendation here primarily for safety. Replace that fuse block and all the connections. I see a few things here the support the recommendation. Further from corrosion, that creates all the resistance causing you to loose power (ie making your batt go dead faster), non of the connections have heat shrink on them and some it looks like the actual wire is exposed. if these guys touch each other you can run into a problem. This will also give you the opportunity to get the ground leads away from the power as well, this way when you are working on it its a bit easier.



I would suggest adding something like this www.bluesea.com/products/5026/ST_Blade_Fuse_Block_-_12_Circuits_with_Negative_Bus_and_Cover. Ive added a picture below from the blue sea website that gives you an idea of the wiring. The nice part about something like this is the come in six and twelve circuits and it lets you put everything in one location on boats the size of ours. Its also very nice because you can clean up the switch board by wiring all the grounds to the fuse block.



Like Juan said, these will replace the in line circuits like i drew in my original picture. Here is another picture to give you an idea of what yours would look like based on the information passes along this far. This wiring concept will go for the block you have now and the new one if you decided to replace.

[CaptWoody]

That is an excellent replacement block. I like the ground being in the same block and those push in fuse are a lot better than the glass tube type.

[yolo]

They are great. The reason i like them most is they put everything in one place and eliminate breaks in wires. The problem with the grounds piggy backing the switches on our panels is they fall off especially when those multi-stack ones are used. One of those piggy packed grounds falls off the switch and you loose everything after that. With these fuse blocks everything is isolated, in one place and solid in terms of connections.


flshblue you basically have the same thing as i suggested buying with a few differences being glass fuses rather than spade, isolated main power and ground connections rather than in line on the block. So effectively the diagram that i posted can be applied to either block.

[flhsblue]

I have been able to get the navavation light,courtesy livht,horn and bilge pump working. Iwill be installing a new wiring system as recommended, once i have all the instruments identified.
Thank you all for the valuable information.
MERRY CHRISTMAS TO ALL