WIRING DIAGRAMS

[Simple Man]

Yeah, printer is coming along nicely. Next we are going to work on his timing...

[Deleted]

I hope this diagram makes up for the problem.

Attachments:

[Deleted]

Jun 25, 2011 12:49:35 GMT -6 @fishtheibx said:

Hello,
I have searched the forum and have not seen anything in regards to wiring diagrams. I guess my question is if anyone knows if the wiring colors are standard on all boats or is it by manufacturer. My dad has a 2003 Sea Pro SV1900CC Bay Boat and he lost power to all of the dash guages, lights, bilge. He was in a bad storm and took a good beating. I have some DC experience and was going to try to help him out when I get back down the the coast. Any recommendations or links would be appreciated?

Thanks! ;D

Fishtheibx

www.fishtheibx.com

Fishtheibx,

The very same thing happened to me - we were in rough seas and the electrical system just went out. This is how I fixed it: there is a large nylon male/female connecting socket behind the dash. I figure the weight of the wiring bundle and the rough ride caused it to work loose. I made sure it was tightly connected and then used a couple of nylon cable ties to secure it. The problem has not happened since.

ednlorna

[karlfdburg]

Also check the battery connections. I've had issues in the past where a terminal was corroded or loose and a little bit of cleaning and tightening made her happy again. Also check any of the fuses coming out from the terminals. There should be an inline fuse (probably 30 AMP) that controls power to the whole dashboard and accessories.

[Deleted]

Fishtheibx and ednlorna - Thx for this info. Same thing happened to me (210 w 150 Johnson) returning from fireworks display in the dark. Lots of traffic on the river and no lights whatsoever. Sure glad I carry a flashlight! I will definitely secure the wiring bundle.

[Deleted]

Not sure about the wiring on the smaller Sea Pro boats but the stuff they called wiring on my 270 was an insult to any boater. After repeated attempts to fix wires and breakers I finally jerked out every wire in mine and did the job the way I wish it had been from the start. Everything, and I mean everything, on my boat is now connected to a fuse block so that if any one thing goes out I can easily trace the problem and fix it...even in rough seas. Power runs from the house battery to a master switch at the dash and then feeds the fuse blocks. In the end it also cleaned up the mess below my dash and using toggles instead of rockers made the outside a lot cleaner and easier to replace if needed. All the switches for upstairs stuff like Nav lights, front & rear spreaders, courtesy lights, search light, map lights, etc. were mounted on the side of the E-Box overhead. Bilge pumps, fresh and raw water washdowns, livewell and other pumps went to switches on the left side of the dash. Electronics including MFD, radar, sonar, AIS transponder, VHF, Sat radio, etc. are off a master switch and fuse block on the side and inside of the dash. Tuna lights, downrigger power, horn and other electrics are where the rockers used to be. At the end of the day you can cut the master switch and know for sure that everything electronic is also turned off...even if the switch is still on to any item.

All this took three full days but it was a labor of love for the peace of mind it gave me. It is wonderful what correctly sized marine tinned wire, weather-deck switches and a little King Starboard can do. Another amazing benefit is that it also made it easy to run new control and throttle cables once that mess of wires was removed from the starboard cable tube. I ran everything from the rear of the boat through the port tube and still have enough room in it to run dozens more wires...if I ever need them.

I'm certainly not a marine electrician but after 50 years of messing with boat wiring at the worst possible moment I learned a few things.