Removing the fuel tank on 210CC

[markmass]

Well, i ended up doing it - zero pressure being held btw - Dimensions of this tank is 67L x 20W X 14H
I cut open the deck following the 'recess' - I am impressed with the construction - very solid, You do need to lift the center console to cut further back.
Pretty straight forward, bunch of screws around the base, and then undo the T-Top from the sides - the misses comes in handy to stop the nuts spinning. I put straps under and hoisted it up, using the T-Top - - No need to remove that remove that - just as well - what cracks me up is the way they construct. The T-Top is held to the deck with screws top and underneath LOCKNUTS! you can never get access to these, likewise the leaning post!
Couple of things i would have done differently:
The forward edge of the deck where it meets with the center console is glassed underneath - keep cutting until you get through this. I actually cut the deck width ways under the leaning post and then realized i could have got away without that == oh well....The rear end is 'stuck' to the cross member with some weird hard substance, easy to get off.
So - with the center console up, rear deck removed I cut out the base under the CC -its only 1/2" thick.
Now here is where anyone with these boat take note! -- there is a compartment forward of the fuel tank - it had at least 6-8" of standing water. I jacked up the front - high, very high - and had probably 20 gallons come out
I cut the filler, vent and pick up hose - will replace new.
The foam - i took a large handsaw and cut next to the tank - real easy.
There is a 'filler' pad forward on the tank, need to remove that. The tank came out from the back.
The forward section of the fuel tank compartment had an inch and half of standing water, rotten foam etc. Fortunately the structure is solid.
What is odd -- the rear platform has a 1 inch hole into the bilge - but none forward! - i remedied that courtesy of a hole saw (i will glass through that)

So - the compartment is now bare, and cleaned up
Oh yes - the crucial bit as you'll see in the pictures - a hole about 1/4"in the forward bottom corner of the tank and severe pitting in that area - it looks like galvanic (sp?) corrosion as its so isolated. it must have just sat in water for years.
Next:
I will take the tank to see if it can be repaired - the rest of the it is in very good shape - even the inside shows no corrosion - i have had quotes of around 700-800 for custom built, if its around 200 to repair, may go that route, and get some d**n good sealant -- deck is now cut, so if a future calls for new tank, its not a major job
When i mount the tank - i am going to stick 3 67" x 2" strips of 1/2" thick starboard with 5200 to the belly of the tank length ways, and then 1/2" thick
neoprene strips to the starboard - i won't use foam!
paint the fuel compartment with bilge paint
Order some starboard to build supports for the deck
Move the batteries in to the CC
Major adjustments to trailer to bring bow up several inches
Also - thinking about dropping a bilge pump into that forward compartment, and also leaving an access hatch so i can hose with fresh water
I will keep you informed as i progress.
- Oh and the last picture is of me enjoying a well deserved home brewed beer from my neighbor --a porter he started brewing in November - outstanding



 




CC With straps


This is the forward compartment in front of tank - full of standing water

Fuel tank removed
The culprit...


Well deserved - me on the right - brewmaster to the left

Deck cut out (i hadn't cut the base under the CC when i snapped this

Attachments:

[freezerfiller]

Nice work. Any idea of what the forward compartment might have been for? I wonder If I could use it to store my 2 trolling motor batteries and get that room back in the console?

[markmass]

The compartment serves no purpose and completely enclosed - its half in the console and half out - in front. Ill get some better shots for you

[freezerfiller]

Thanks, and some approximate measurements would be great too!

[Simple Man]

Awesome job so far! Keep taking loads of pictures. You might want to refer to something later.

[markmass]

Thanks all for the encouragement! Southern Cross I'm actually in marketing! but have always been 'handy' and like working with my hands. On reflection your absolutely correct -- why put a tank back in that is 14 years old, and suffered damage -- not sure what i was thinking...
I looked up Moeller - and the 55 gallon may work, its the height that maybe the problem.
Yes its 26 gallons less, but looking at Yamaha burn rates on similar size boats is around 10GPH at cruise. Certainly enough for me - i think im 5 hours away from any gas!
If I do get one custom made it will likely be shorter, wee bit wider and higher. around 60 gallons. It will take a bit more weight off the back. I worked out I can get another compartment behind the leaning post around 20" long x 20" odd wide and put an access hatch right there....Decisions, decisions...

[Deleted]

I redid the floor in my old boat not the same project as it was wood. But I did coat the floor with a durabak roll on boat floor linner. It was non slip, tough as nails... No bare feet! But it was imposible to clean. Just a thought if you go with this option. Nice job!

[markmass]

I trolled long and hard for a plastic tank. the closest (moellor - 58 Gallons) had the pick-up and sender in the middle to one side. I assume the tank was meant to fit transversely. I don't like the idea of trying to pick fuel up getting on the plane or the bow riding higher....I had some talks with them, but nothing that i didn't already know..So:
I am getting an aluminum tank made - inch wider, inch taller than original and 21" shorter - still 61 odd gallons (original is 81)plenty i think - and the weight will now be further forward - previous owner added trim tabs as he said it porpoised quite a bit, so this help even more. I also like to keep tanks full to avoid moisture. It will be 2 part epoxy coated on the outside and i will mount plastic strips to the bottom, and neoprene on the plastic keep it out of any water.
This now frees space behind the tank for a 'new' compartment that will measure approx 25" wide by 22" length and 19" deep and add a 24"w x 16"l hatch. I will house a fuel separator there and probably store life jackets and such.
Will be ordering longer battery cables so i can house the batteries in the CC and likely put the oil tank up front, clearing the rear bilge from 'clutter' and keeping batteries/terminals relatively dry. and the oil 'always' in view.
Keep tuned.....

[markmass]

Mar 30, 2014 19:03:38 GMT -6 freezerfiller said:

Nice work. Any idea of what the forward compartment might have been for? I wonder If I could use it to store my 2 trolling motor batteries and get that room back in the console?

After measuring there is no access from the front - it is about 18" long and about 23 wide, but its all under the console. If you wanted to, you could cut out some of the floor under the console and batteries would fit.
I will take some snaps - sorry, didn't take phone when i just went up there

[markmass]

Update:
Batteries out, oil tank out. It's definitely a bit of a mess in there with all the wiring - i assume seapro had one wiring loom for the longest boat and used it on all!
Ordered 2 deck hatches, Mallory fuel/water separator, fuel pick up lines (enough to relocate the oil tank to CC and run new oil lines), fuel fill, vent, clamps etc, new battery cables to run to the front (replacing all due to corrosion). Lower unit is off as I will be completely replacing the water pump/housing et all, and changing the oil.
With everything out will clean up the bilge and paint and tidy the wires. The placement of the bilge pump and auto switch is rather odd, so.....replace that with an all in one bilge pump and place where it actually makes sense....
No work this weekend as i am taking the lad camping -- oh btw - i live in south Florida!

[freezerfiller]

I thought you looked a little tan to be from Mass. It would be nice to put in a hatch and get free storage space, although I doubt I'll cut my deck for that, I might one day just to make sure I'm not toting around 15 gallons of water that I can't use... That gives me an idea, I wonder if that compartment is where the fresh water tank goes on boats so equipped?

[markmass]

Update
Took a couple of weeks for the tank to get here, then with prep etc etc. Anyhow - pretty much near done

This is the new tank - 60 gallons, giving me some extra space for storage. I did not intend to foam it in, but it was just not stable. So i ended up getting a gallon of 2 pack closed cell foam. This stuff is wild - and yes a major clear up as it went off as i carrying it over the deck --- live and learn - 5 hours of scrubbing - talk about kicking yourself,really did get me down for a few days!!
The supports are screwed under the deck with 3/4 Lag screws, and 5200 - lots of it. I used the stringers also as platforms and wedge support where i could. Its going nowhere!



The deck back in. It lined up really well, all joints sealed again with 5200. Of course now the tank access moved up...
See the new hatch just behind the leaning post, i also changed out the old stern hatch to match.


Cleaned up the CC - new batteries, trays, and leads all the way back to the outboard



All in all, a pretty intense job, and i figure around $1100 with tank, complete new fuel lines, foam, 5200, lag screws, supports (vinyl planking)
Now to go fill it up!

[Pennpal]

What did you use to cut the deck? I have a sv21 and been smelling gas for a wile now. Have not seen any fuel in the bilge at all. Im going to do a pressure test and go from there.

[antonioprado1986]

Don't you have some type of video to show how it was glazed back in, etc.

I just purchased a 210cc.

Also how do I inspect inside without removing the console. I just wanna look inside before this huge project

[freezerfiller]

About the only views you have are by opening the inspection plate direcly behind the helm seats. You won't see much. Might be worth getting one of those inspection cameras on a flexible stick..

[gnrphil]

I've read somewhere that it's a good idea to make the cut at 45 degrees around the tank, this will give the deck a good surface to sit back on when you reinstall, makes sense to me.

[tigerhead]

antonioprado,

This original post is over 4 years old, and the guy that originally posted this went by markmass. He hasn't posted on the board in over 4 years, so I doubt he monitors the board and would reply to your questions. 

I know smelling fuel in your bilge is not cool. My boat is different from yours, but I had the same thing going on and could not enjoy the boat due to worrying about a possible fuel leak. I also did not have any detectable liquid fuel in my bilge, but the vapors were absolutely stronger than they should have been. My problem turned out to be a cracked fuel fill hose and not my tank. My tank is a poly tank. Markmass had an aluminum tank and corrosion got his. I hope you find a bad hose. Replacing a tank is a big and expensive project. Good luck.

[antonioprado1986]

Tiger head your boat came with a poly tank. While I don't smell fuel cause the boats been sitting for 8yrs I know for a fact every fuel hose needs to be replaced but more importantly I was just trying figure out a way to inspect the tank without removal cause it looks like there's evidence showing the tank may have been already replaced cause I saw 5200 around the seems of the console. Also the console isn't from factory and the battery and cable was ran under the cc . And from reading on many forums I noticed that's the first thing people do when they replace the tanks. And while this is an old post, I figured I'd post here as I didn't find to many people discussing about sea pro tank replacement elsewhere.

I'm just dumbfounded that these engineers couldn't invent a a couple small removal lid to stick a light and at least a snake to look underneath to inspect. It's as if they knew the shit would rot and hoped a person would go in to get hit with a 8k bill or more.


So I give my other question is since you went Into your boat already, does the factory use a ton of foam that will cause rot, and do they use poly or aluminum. And where did you get your tank when you replaced it and do you remember how much it cost doing it yourself.

Other than this the floor. Hull and transom is as solid as it can be

[AHHHH-Spray]

Antonio- there should be access to the sending unit unless the previous owner covered it up. Look inside the console for a round plate held down with screws. It may be underneath a battery box.

[antonioprado1986]

Sept 8, 2018 18:26:16 GMT -6 AHHHH-Spray said:

Antonio- there should be access to the sending unit unless the previous owner covered it up. Look inside the console for a round plate held down with screws. It may be underneath a battery box.

I did check, thanks.tank looked pretty clean. There was no smell of fuel but then again, the boat sat for 8yrs. I also removed the water/sep filter and it was empty. Should I fill the tank with gas to check of it leaks. I just don't wanna spend money on gas if it does leak.

You guys know how to do a leak down test to see if it maintains pressure without dropping?