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Post by Deleted on Jun 3, 2014 8:24:40 GMT -6
Anyone know what my top speed should be with a Suzuki DF140 on a 2002 sv2100CC?
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Post by Deleted on Jun 3, 2014 14:23:26 GMT -6
I think I am running a 13 7/8 x 19 with blades that have a great deal of rake. BTW I think I replied to Yeti question earlier. The bow deck on older model 2100 is a little more convenient to use and mount cooler than the later models for the larger yetis since access hatch is on the side and not on top. I have no idea what my prop is but I don't get anywhere near 45 mph. I'm a novice to boating so bear with me. What do you mean by "rake"? Should my prop say what it is on it somewhere? I'll check it when I get home and get back to you. With regards to the Yeti, I can't decide if 75 is too small or if I should jump to 110 of if that will take over my bow.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 3, 2014 17:33:48 GMT -6
That sounds very complicated. All I know is my prop is stainless. Nothing etched on it anywhere on the outside.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 4, 2014 8:22:19 GMT -6
Sigh. I wish someone could just say "go buy ______" and that will be the best mph your boat/motor can get.
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Post by Simple Man on Jun 4, 2014 11:58:12 GMT -6
Sigh. I wish someone could just say "go buy ______" and that will be the best mph your boat/motor can get. The closest you will get to that is to contact Ken at propgods.com
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Post by lafromla1 on Feb 6, 2015 10:14:12 GMT -6
Sell the DF140 as soon as you can. The heads are made of a cast iron that rusts from the inside and your block will eventually crack. Even under warranty, Suzuki will not honor it. Same goes for the Johnson 140, which is a Suzuki DF140. Trust me, from experience, if your engine is running, sell it as soon as possible. Sell it and go buy a Yamaha or Mercury.
I'm stuck with a 3200lb, $30,000 anchor that is just killing grass. I dont have the $5K to fix the cracked block, nor do I have $15K to switch out engines. The engine was flushed after every trip and the boat washed down, so its not a point of not taking care of the engine or the boat. Johnson, said that they would split the cost of the part ($2500), but not on the labor, which is about another $2000-$2500. They knew it was an issue with their product and they don't want to take care of their customers. The engine blocks should have been recalled. And that is better customer service than the people with actual Suzuki's are getting from Suzuki, which are offering nothing. I will never get another Suzuki product again.
However, when it ran, it was a pig out of the hole. The boat just weighs too much for the 140. Once on plane, it was a thing of beauty, sipping gas like it wasn't even using any. Spent a full week in the Keys, using the boat everyday, and I only went through half a tank. I did get it up to about 38mph at 90% WOT and it felt like it had a little more to go, but not much, so maybe 40mph is about max with that engine. My prop was stamped with 13 7/8 x 19 on the inside.
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Post by Simple Man on Feb 15, 2015 9:28:47 GMT -6
Sucks about your motor dude. I hope you get things resolved and back on the water ASAP.
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Post by lafromla1 on Feb 18, 2015 10:35:08 GMT -6
Southern Cross, my engine has 110 hours on the meter and I know that there was an additional 10-20 hours on it before I put the meter on it, so it has about 120-130 total hours. The engine is clean and I usually got to where I needed to go, and the dropped the trolling motor for the rest of the day, so it hasn't been used all that much. It didn't overheat, nor where there any warning lights or sounds. Even took it to where Bombardier told me to take it to have it diagnostically checked and they said nothing came up to warrant this happening (but the MF'er charged me $90 for a diagnostic even though he was directed by Bombardier to check it out. He basically held my boat hostage, so needless to say, I wont be buying anything from him EVER). The plug you are talking about is a little further down the unit, not where the water jacket is (that's where my crack is). I haven't even bothered to pull the plug and replace it with something better yet, since I can't do anything at the moment anyway. I tried a high-heat cold weld and that didn't take. so I cleaned it back out and am going to try regular JB Weld. No welder will touch it since its cast iron and very thin where it cracked.
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Post by lafromla1 on Feb 18, 2015 12:05:37 GMT -6
Dang what part of the country do you live in? That is a strange looking crack. Looks more like a fracture. I can't tell from picture but it appears to have an edge higher than the other like something pushed it out. Looks almost like water did not completely drain out, froze, and cracked the block. Have seen that happen before. Actually happened to me and my dad on a duck hunting trip with a Mercury. It was cold as all get out. Ran the boat, beached it and left motor tilted up. Water froze and cracked the head (unkown to us) when we set off again and cranked back up to leave water flooded a cylinder. Luckily it didn't hydro-lock and we were able to putt putt back to ramp but we had get a new power head. It cost $2,000 and them were 1978 dollars. My dad gave boat and motor to cousin and best I know that engine is about 40 years old and still runs. If you have insurance you may need to file a claim. I live in Central Florida....lol. I never leave the motor tilted up when it is stored. Yes, it is not a truly even crack and something did push it out. Even if it froze, the freeze plug should have ejected, not the block cracking. I have done some research and others have had the same issue on their Suzuki DF's (90's, 110's and 140's). That specific area of the water jacket is thinner then the rest of the block and they have a tendency to crack right there, especially since the cast iron used is a weak material which was used to cut costs on the engine and keep them priced lower then their same size competitors. Insurance won't cover it. Now if it fell off the boat and I had to drag it out of the water, then it would have been covered. Go figure.
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Post by freezerfiller on Feb 18, 2015 12:10:56 GMT -6
If that crack is indeed external only to the cooling water, you might have a better than 50% shot at patching it... It's not like you have anything to lose but an hour and a few bucks. I don't think JB weld alone will hold though. I would rough up a good inch away from the crack, clean it with some brake parts cleaner (the kind that hurts children in California), fill the crack with JB weld, and then put a a layer of fiberglass/epoxy over the outside just to give it some surface area to grab ahold of and provide some tensile strength. If that doesn't work, you can always get the part 50% off and look for deal on labor when you can afford it, or learn to do it yourself.
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Post by lafromla1 on Aug 16, 2015 18:21:59 GMT -6
Well, changed out the batteries, put in some fresh fuel, and the crack reopened. I am very, very frustrated as I've run the motor a couple of time since I welded it and it held and now it reopened. Just dropped $500 on various pieces and parts thinking I had this problem taken care of and it's still a piece of nuts engine. Glad I haven't spent the cash on trim tabs or a new gps/fishfinder yet.
So now I am at a crossroads on what to do.
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Post by lafromla1 on Oct 15, 2015 19:04:35 GMT -6
Got the crack all welded up, let it idle for about 20 minutes and no water. Gonna take it out on Saturday for a hard run and see if it holds.
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Post by gnrphil on Oct 15, 2015 19:23:40 GMT -6
Excellent good luck boating2
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