Post by grassman on Sept 27, 2014 9:59:44 GMT -6
For anyone wanting to rebuild a trim cylinder,
Just rebuilt my trim cylinder on my 115. Wasn't hard at all after I got the trim unit off. That took a week to remove but from then on only about an hour.
Anyways, this is the write up
The trim pins holding the unit were corroded and seized so I sprayed everything down with penetrating oil (ie. pb blaster) once a day Monday through Thursday. Then on Friday I removed the trilobe pins that lock the large pins in, then heated the aluminum housing around the pins with a MAPP torch and beat them out. Actually I had my wife continue heating the area as I knocked them out. It needed heating and banging at the same time or would not budge. Also, Propane torch would not get hot enough to work. Then I put into a vise and tried to remove top cap with my home made spanner wrench. My wrench just bent so I ended up just unscrewing them by knocking them with a punch. I wouldn't recommend if anyone wanted them to look perfect after but it did the job easily and very little damage. Just ovaled out the holes for the pin a little. After that I just pulled the shaft out and replaced the two upper orings. For the lower I had remove manual release screw and blow compressed air in. Popped right out and replaced final oring. Then just put everything back together and bled system. I bled the system first with the unit still in the vise. Figured it would be easier to purge than on the boat. Just used a battery jump box to operate pump. Then reinstalled everything last night with antiseize on EVERYTHING and purged a few more times to insure all air was out. Woke up this morning and no leaks and motor is up right where I left it. Cost 10$ for rebuild kit and 4$ for a bottle of trim fluid.
P.S. I left out the four days of banging and misery that didn't work out of the write up
Hope This Helps Someone
'
Just rebuilt my trim cylinder on my 115. Wasn't hard at all after I got the trim unit off. That took a week to remove but from then on only about an hour.
Anyways, this is the write up
The trim pins holding the unit were corroded and seized so I sprayed everything down with penetrating oil (ie. pb blaster) once a day Monday through Thursday. Then on Friday I removed the trilobe pins that lock the large pins in, then heated the aluminum housing around the pins with a MAPP torch and beat them out. Actually I had my wife continue heating the area as I knocked them out. It needed heating and banging at the same time or would not budge. Also, Propane torch would not get hot enough to work. Then I put into a vise and tried to remove top cap with my home made spanner wrench. My wrench just bent so I ended up just unscrewing them by knocking them with a punch. I wouldn't recommend if anyone wanted them to look perfect after but it did the job easily and very little damage. Just ovaled out the holes for the pin a little. After that I just pulled the shaft out and replaced the two upper orings. For the lower I had remove manual release screw and blow compressed air in. Popped right out and replaced final oring. Then just put everything back together and bled system. I bled the system first with the unit still in the vise. Figured it would be easier to purge than on the boat. Just used a battery jump box to operate pump. Then reinstalled everything last night with antiseize on EVERYTHING and purged a few more times to insure all air was out. Woke up this morning and no leaks and motor is up right where I left it. Cost 10$ for rebuild kit and 4$ for a bottle of trim fluid.
P.S. I left out the four days of banging and misery that didn't work out of the write up
Hope This Helps Someone
'
