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Post by lafromla1 on Sept 27, 2015 19:15:43 GMT -6
So now I can't seem to hold an idle (higher RPMS are no problem). I have changed the following:
1) spark plugs
2) low pressure fuel filter
3) high pressure fuel filter
4) fuel pickup tube and hardware
5) fuel lines and bulb
6) drained fuel tank and put in some fresh fuel (including some aviation fuel to clean out the injectors)
I am thinking the next step is the IAC (idle air control) valve. I read a thread somewhere that said they are a common problem in that the spring inside gets a little (c)rusty and won't close all the way, thus messing with the fuel/air mixture at idle. one mechanic, before he swaps it out for a new one, sprays some carb cleaner in there to see if that will clean it up and allow it to move freely again. If not, the part is about $212, plus $4 for the gasket. It is very easy to get to, about 10m time and a total of 5 bolts (3 on the flywheel cover and 2 on the IAC).
Is there something else that I am missing here?
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Post by freezerfiller on Sept 28, 2015 13:51:06 GMT -6
Yeah, you probably have more experience than any of us do... That does make some sense. If it's that easy to get to, It wouldn't hurt to remove it, lube it and put it back on. Might save you some dough.
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Post by lafromla1 on Sept 29, 2015 7:47:48 GMT -6
Yeah, you probably have more experience than any of us do... That does make some sense. If it's that easy to get to, It wouldn't hurt to remove it, lube it and put it back on. Might save you some dough. We took it off and cleaned it up, but still no go. Guess I'll have to figure out how to squeeze another $250. This is killing me with my daughters wedding coming up and then Xmas, wife is getting pissed I'm dumping cash into this thing that still isnt running. |
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Post by gtightline on Sept 29, 2015 14:42:06 GMT -6
I'm no expert, but before dropping $250 into something you are not sure about, I would check for air leaks in the system....is it fuel injected? If not, you might want to check the gaskets...I've had this problem, and it turned out to be a bad carb gasket...just a thought..Air leaks will make it run lean especially at idle...to much air not enough fuel...maybe that's why it will run good when you add fuel to it ..just saying.
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Post by gnrphil on Sept 29, 2015 14:59:59 GMT -6
I'm no expert, but before dropping $250 into something you are not sure about, I would check for air leaks in the system....is it fuel injected? If not, you might want to check the gaskets...I've had this problem, and it turned out to be a bad carb gasket...just a thought..Air leaks will make it run lean especially at idle...to much air not enough fuel...maybe that's why it will run good when you add fuel to it ..just saying. Great point, a vacuum leak will do that every time. |
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Post by freezerfiller on Oct 1, 2015 6:20:30 GMT -6
We took it off and cleaned it up, but still no go. Guess I'll have to figure out how to squeeze another $250. This is killing me with my daughters wedding coming up and then Xmas, wife is getting pissed I'm dumping cash into this thing that still isnt running. Could you tell if it was working properly when you cleaned it up? It looks like it's just a 12v solenoid, so it should open or close when you give it 12v. If it doesn't There are a couple of used ones on ebay that they say are in good working condition for under $100. www.ebay.com/itm/Suzuki-Marine-DF140-Other-Models-IAC-Idle-Air-Control-Valve-18137-77E00-/111768264372?hash=item1a05e85eb4&vxp=mtr www.ebay.com/itm/2001-10-SUZUKI-90-140HP-4-STROKE-DF140-18137-77E00-ISC-IAC-IDLE-CONTROL-VALVE-/331662264404?hash=item4d389c8854&vxp=mtr Not sure if they fit your engine tho. Did you check the compression when you changed the plugs? I've never run avgas to clean out injectors, but I know seafoam is good stuff for that. I'm typically against additives, but Seafoam works. A vacuum leak is a good possibility as well, but if it's bad enough to not idle, it would probably be bad enough to effect the entire rpm range. I'm not saying to do this as it is flammable, but I have in the past been able to find a vacuum leak by running an unlit propane torch around the suspected leak site and listening for an rpm change. Good luck! |
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Post by gtightline on Oct 1, 2015 7:03:47 GMT -6
In the old days we used a can of ether on the old style Panheads and Shovelhead motors on our Harleys... ether sprayed around the intake manifolds or vacuum hoses and listening for changes ...Those older bikes were notorious for developing leaks at the intake manifolds....it would be an inexpensive way to check your boat motor also, for sure...Not sure if you have carbs on your motor, if you do you might want to check and make sure that the butterfly valve (Choke) are opening fully after engine starts up...just a thought...Good luck with that and keep us posted. Your learning experience is also our learning experience...  |
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Post by lafromla1 on Oct 15, 2015 14:17:43 GMT -6
Should have the IAC delivered today. Crossing fingers I can get out this weekend. Its supposed to be nice out and the wife will be at the Happiest Place on Earth with the women.
Put in the new IAC and it started right up and held an idle. Bumped it up a little too far and it conked out, it has an idle limiter. Restarted it, idle held and then bumped it up slowly, below the idle threshold and she held just fine. Can't wait to take her out on Saturday.
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Post by lafromla1 on Jan 2, 2016 9:43:21 GMT -6
Rather than start a new thread, here is the latest issue. Replaced the thermostat and she fires right up and pisses a stream stronger then when I first get her. However, after idling in a tub for about 20m, it stalls and I can't restart for about an hour. Some people say its the fuel vapor separator or some piece like that. If so, it's another $800 for the parts to fix it and it still might not be the issue.
At this point, I'm lost. It's either drop another $1500 after labor, repower, or sell it all and try something else.
I can get a new Suzuki DF150 and drop it right in without having to change any control or steering for about $10,500.
The new DF200AP will probably run about $18,000 after new rigging and steering.
Boat show coming up near my house. I can try and find something else, pull the new parts off the engine and put back the damaged ones, sell the new parts for $0.80 on the dollar since they never left the house, and get what I can for it all.
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Post by Juan on Jan 2, 2016 16:19:08 GMT -6
Sorry you're having so many problems with that thing. I'm guessing it doesn't have a diagnostic connection that can be hooked to a computer to tell you what's wrong with it.
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Post by lafromla1 on Jan 2, 2016 18:57:59 GMT -6
Sorry you're having so many problems with that thing. I'm guessing it doesn't have a diagnostic connection that can be hooked to a computer to tell you what's wrong with it. When I took it in after the crack in the block, they hooked it up for a diagnostic and it passed everything, or so they told me. I'll try another shop that specializes in Suzukis and see what they say. |
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Post by gtightline on Jan 3, 2016 3:02:46 GMT -6
Heck, if you have the cash, why not go ahead and buy the new motor, remember you would also be buying peace of mind. Nothing can be as ugly as being left stranded in the ocean, or out in the middle of a swamp somewhere....You can't put a price on peace of mind...10-4...
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Post by oceancoursecaddy on Aug 13, 2016 15:38:41 GMT -6
So I have the same motor as lafromla1 and had all the same issues as the first post. Took it to the boat shop and they just got back to me. A hole in my exhaust. How they explained it to me was there is a plug in the exhaust. This plug serves no purpose. The plug is made of the same material as the pipe around it which allows corrosion to form. Exhaust fumes were choking the motor and killing it. In the end a $2000 fix  |
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acarr83
Sailor
Posts: 28 
Location: Cape Fear, NC
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Post by acarr83 on Nov 16, 2016 8:50:50 GMT -6
I know i'm digging this one out of the grave, but I'm curious how this turned out.
I had the opposite issue with my DF140 earlier in the season: idled fine but I couldn't squeeze out more than 4000 RPM with the hammer down..
Taking apart the Vapor Separator wasn't fun, but it isn't rocket surgery. Certainly not worth $800. I cleaned the little filter in there in lieu of replacing it.. sea trialed and the problem still existed.
Took my fuel injectors out and forced carb cleaner through them with a syringe + fuel line rigged up, while cycling them with a 12v connection rigged to a doorbell for a switch..
still same.
I finally pulled the injectors again, removed the tiny filter/screens from each, and ran them through an ultrasonic cleaner for a few cycles. Replaced the filters, reinstalled injectors into the boat, and sea-trialed again.
Worked like a charm. 5900-6000 RPM at top end.
I traced this back to a cheap Fuel/Water separator filter that was installed by the previous owner, who inevitably used ethanol fuel, and let the boat sit for a year, which caused the inside of the F/W filter to rust, which got caught in the injectors!
TL/DR:
1. Don't use ethanol fuel.
2. Fuel problems suck, but they are not a reason to replace an outboard.
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In regards to the exhaust plug issue.. I know mine needs to be patched. It hasn't broken yet, but it looks pretty rusty..
Hopefully I can find someone to weld over the hole, instead of replacing the entire "engine holder" assembly..
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