Those Pesky Trailer Lights

[heavetoo]

Nothing in this world gives a trailerable boat owner more frustrated than those pesky trailer lights.  There are so many ways for the lights to fail and so many things to check when they fail.

I am thinking of rewiring mine.  I have a few questions to see what you guys think.

I am considering going to LED lights.  Is this worth the additional price?

Are there any particular brands of lights are good or bad?

One thing that I have also noticed is the way that most trailers are wired.  They use regular automotive wire and regular crimp fittings.  I am thinking of wiring with marine grade wire and using marine grade wire terminals with shrink fittings to keep the water out of the connections.  Do you think that would help?

It is bad that you can't make the wire fitting for the wire harness that connects to the vehicle.  This means that you are stuck with what ever wire is on the harness already, which is automotive wire and a smaller diameter.  I am still going to run this to marine grade wiring with marine grad crimp/shrink fittings and then put a large piece of shrink tube over it to protect the run of wire from the sun.

I am also thinking of rewiring the light hookup on my truck at the same time to eliminate that as an issue.

Anyone else have any suggestions I would love to hear them.

[985crabs]

I switched to LED 3-4 years ago and have never regretted it. I say this because I am still using the same set of LED lights after 3-4 years.

I don't know if you have to go so far as to use marine wire. They don't draw any power. Just make sure you have your connections sealed well. I used regular butt end connectors, crimped them and sealed them with 2 coats of liquid electrical tape. Solid as a rock.

I also disconnect my trailer lights before dunking the trailer in the water. I know there's an ongoing debate about whether that is necessary or not, but it works for me. Of course, one needs to plug them in again after recovering the boat, but you just make it a part of your strapping down routine.

I think the brand I bought is Boater Sports.

[captduck]

When i got this boat and trailer. The first thing i did was replace the lights with LED lights. I used heat shrink butt connectors where i spliced the wires together. No need for marine grade wire as long as the wire isn't chaffed anywhere. I also unplug my lights before backing trailer in water. On my other boat that i had i also had led lights. I swapped them out with this trailer before i sold the other boat and trailer and they were on there for about 4 years!

[Juan]

Same here on LEDs. I rewired the Sea Pro trailer with new wiring, LED tail lights and LED side marker lights probably 8 to 10 years ago and the same ones are still there and working perfectly (and I never disconnect the lights before launching). I even have LEDs on the top of the PVC trailer guides. I used the standard boat wiring kit and soldered each connection and then coated with liquid tape and then covered with electrical tape and then gave that another coat of liquid tape. I have all the exposed wires leading to the truck connection covered with a wiring protector. I did the same thing to my bass boat when I bought it. LEDs are supposed to last a long time and there's no more bulbs or sockets rusting like I used to have with standard bulbs.

[mosquito13]

Get all connections out of the water. Around here the slick set up is to use 14 or 16 gauge extension cords from just after the tongue to the lights. Do the connection in a water tight landscaping box for a clean look. As to the lights use pole lights. Low dough method  is to heat a piece of the 2" pvc and flatten it in a vice and then just drill holes for standard trailer lights. flic.kr/p/Cg9j8C The extension cord carries a ground and connections up above water. I use water tight crimps(covered with adhesive lined shrink ) and over sleave them with adhesive lined shrink tubing giving a water proof connection. Tinned wire is great but over kill if you are getting all connections up and out of the water. Will shoot some pic's of above system and a pipe light kit. latter in led is about 80 bucks for LED and you need to get the guide post set up. LED's are great but remember you get what you pay for if buying them online. flic.kr/p/Cg9Ry3 
 

[mosquito13]

If you go with standard bulbs liberally grease sockets ect with dielectric grease from new to avoid a lot of corrrosion before it starts.

[yolo]

Oct 11, 2017 9:17:44 GMT -6 985crabs said:

I also disconnect my trailer lights before dunking the trailer in the water. I know there's an ongoing debate about whether that is necessary or not, but it works for me.

I just wrote this on the other thread, I kept going through lights when I first started out & (as I learned everything else) my uncle had the simplest fix as he always does.

Unplug the trailer and stick a screwdriver in the hole where the solenoid is so the brakes dont engage when you take the power off. Havent lost light in years, so it works for me too buddy!

[yolo]

I wouldn't waste your money on the marine wire either. There is no need. But defiantly put dielectric grease on the ends before putting them together. You'll get years more out of it. And defiantly use shrink connectors or the liquid tape like crabs & Juan said. Helps them from coming apart. If that happens and wire touches the trailer you'll loose the fuse.

[985crabs]

I just looked at Mosquito's flat PVC tail light holder. There's something positively Cajun about that. I like it!

[tigerhead]

Bought a new aluminum tandem axle trailer 4 years ago and got the "Saltwater Package" that included LED lights. I fish strictly saltwater and the same lights are still on the trailer. I don't unplug my lights when I launch. I don't have the PVC uprights, so my tail lights get dunked about 12". I will probably go to the PVC setup when these go out, but there's no way I can keep all of my connections above the waterline. Due to the width of my trailer, it's lit up like a Christmas tree. Side markers/clearance lights on the leading edge of my fenders and the three lights on the rear cross bar are going under also. Only problem I've had was a bad ground connection. Re-attached the ground with a more robust wire and stainless steel bolt and no more worries. LEDs are well worth the extra money.