mosquito13
Lieutenant
Posts: 788 
Location: the other West Coast
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Post by mosquito13 on Oct 28, 2017 8:44:48 GMT -6
Rebuilt a new to me used trailer and have decided to start from fresh on the lighting of it. Plan is to start with a four pin loom to a water proof irrigation box at end of tongue bar . In the box split off to two 14 gauge three wire extension cords. One for each leg of the lighting system. At same spot as the box start with two side led amber marker lights (off the running circuit) then back to rear to post led lights doing turn/running/brake. From those down to frame mounted led lights doing turn/running/brake/license plate on one side and the other frame mount doing turn/running/brake. From the latter run a line off it's running light circuit to the rear cross member bar to a three bulb led red identification light. Sucks as the last three lights I got are all frame grounded and will be submerged when floating the boat. Hoping lots of dialectic grease with keep em grounded for a while. By running to the post lights first , even when the "wet lights" go, I will still have the post lights for turn/running/brakes. Some over kill but plan is to start trailering longer distances , and a lot of that will be very early in the AM. I will post up some pic's of the install as it comes together.
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Post by freezerfiller on Oct 28, 2017 10:38:29 GMT -6
Yep, them three center lights go under a lot, but they are required and do add safety factor for those pre daylight drunks.
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Post by gnrphil on Oct 29, 2017 9:35:42 GMT -6
How about running all the grounds forward to a point where they won't get dunked ?, I haven't done this as my trailer doesn't get dunked too often but just a thought.
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mosquito13
Lieutenant
Posts: 788
Location: the other West Coast
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Post by mosquito13 on Oct 29, 2017 19:34:08 GMT -6
The middle tri lights/identification lights are ground through the mounting bracket(no wire) . Will isolate the lower stop/turn/running ground on either side and run those up the posts to the (extension cord) ground. The identification light always seam to get busted on trailers anyways. So not going to sweat it . Will use tinned wire and leave lots of extra wire length for fresh connections and just plan on replacing as needed.  |
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Post by freezerfiller on Oct 30, 2017 18:28:14 GMT -6
That is an infuriating ground. If you have time, I'd double ground it. My ski boat had one and it was always intermittent, and it was only used in fresh water. When I redo my trailer, I'm going to either weld it or braze it to ground where I don't have to worry about it.
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yolo
Ensign
Posts: 626
Location: Back to Manasquan Inlet, NJ
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Post by yolo on Nov 2, 2017 10:38:05 GMT -6
Rebuilt a new to me used trailer and have decided to start from fresh on the lighting of it. Plan is to start with a four pin loom to a water proof irrigation box at end of tongue bar . In the box split off to two 14 gauge three wire extension cords. One for each leg of the lighting system. At same spot as the box start with two side led amber marker lights (off the running circuit) then back to rear to post led lights doing turn/running/brake. From those down to frame mounted led lights doing turn/running/brake/license plate on one side and the other frame mount doing turn/running/brake. From the latter run a line off it's running light circuit to the rear cross member bar to a three bulb led red identification light. Sucks as the last three lights I got are all frame grounded and will be submerged when floating the boat. Hoping lots of dialectic grease with keep em grounded for a while. By running to the post lights first , even when the "wet lights" go, I will still have the post lights for turn/running/brakes. Some over kill but plan is to start trailering longer distances , and a lot of that will be very early in the AM. I will post up some pic's of the install as it comes together. Just unplug the trailer before you back down. Stick a screw driver down in the hole where the solenoid is so it stays compressed when you pull the electric off. That will keep the brakes off. |
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mosquito13
Lieutenant
Posts: 788
Location: the other West Coast
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Post by mosquito13 on Nov 2, 2017 17:15:26 GMT -6
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yolo
Ensign
Posts: 626
Location: Back to Manasquan Inlet, NJ
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Post by yolo on Nov 3, 2017 6:58:10 GMT -6
My whole trailer is LED. I do it for the connections under water, grounds ect. Any of them share power with the water and the lights can go before they break the fuse. And I seal everything. Had a long conversation with my uncles electrical mechanic years back and he taught me some interesting this. Just what I do.
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Post by Flycableguy on Nov 5, 2017 8:57:37 GMT -6
Looks good, and good idea with the junction box. I kept the old wire in place when I upgraded lights and used it as a dedicated ground. Seems grounding is a common cause of failure.
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Post by Juan on Nov 5, 2017 18:52:54 GMT -6
Have you had your boat on it yet? I just noticed your trailer doesn't have forward bunks like mine does. What keeps the keel from sitting on the cross members?  |
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mosquito13
Lieutenant
Posts: 788
Location: the other West Coast
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Post by mosquito13 on Nov 6, 2017 11:20:33 GMT -6
Juan you can see the Y bracket on the front cross bar. Keel/bow rest on it. The 2" pvc tubes on either side work as rollers and self centering placing keel on the center plastic plate . I have a box of aluminum bunk brackets left over from another trailer project so may add two more bunks like your set up. The trailer was set up for same boat as I have, but they did use galvanized hardware on a aluminum trailer, so I am in doubt of that shop's skills the set it up. More support has to be better for the boat considering the amount of trailering I am prepping it for. So probably will, plus gives me a excuss to try out a friends chainsaw mill to cut the bunk boards out of some cypress. www.sturdybuiltonline.com/Boat-Trailer-V-guide-On-Bow-Support-Kit-for-Front-Crossmember_p_653.html |
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Post by Juan on Nov 6, 2017 16:50:14 GMT -6
Okay... I see it now. Other than having the forward bunks, and not having any amber lights on the front side of the PVC guides, my trailer is an identical twin to yours. The LED lighted PVC guides are a huge help when loading...as long as I get the bow between the guides, it hits the front bunks and lines up perfectly every time. I thought mine were a bit too tall so I shortened them about a foot. IMO it looks better and made them sturdier so they don't vibrate when going down the road like they used to. They legally can't be higher than 72" from the ground and mine were a bit higher than that.
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Post by Juan on Nov 8, 2017 11:50:34 GMT -6
Skeeter13, I like the amber lights on the front side of the rails. I've thought about adding some in the past but wasn't sure how they would look... they should make the trailer easier to see when backing in the dark. Did you add them? Did you use LEDs? Did you connect them to the back side of the LEDs or run separate wiring? Don't the LEDs pop out of the front of the PVC? I haven't had mine out in years so I don't recall and the rubber gasket doesn't want to budge. Also I glued mine onto the PVC pipe where it looks like you have yours connected with a screw / bolt. That's a better idea in case you have to remove it for any reason. |
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mosquito13
Lieutenant
Posts: 788
Location: the other West Coast
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Post by mosquito13 on Nov 8, 2017 17:38:15 GMT -6
Juan I added the led(went all led for all lights) Kept old ones and plan on just adding a led bulb in them for additional bumper lighting on my car hauler , wired to main line at same place rear red is in pipe up high. Yep screwed not glued. rubber grommet pops out with coaxing. Use dish soap if problem to get back in. you can get new soft rubber grommets for cheap on ebay.
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Post by Juan on Nov 8, 2017 18:12:52 GMT -6
Juan I added the led(went all led for all lights) Kept old ones and plan on just adding a led bulb in them for additional bumper lighting on my car hauler , wired to main line at same place rear red is in pipe up high. Yep screwed not glued. rubber grommet pops out with coaxing. Use dish soap if problem to get back in. you can get new soft rubber grommets for cheap on ebay. Thanks, Good deal! I couldn't remember if the red LEDs popped out or not.. I'll try it again with a bit more effort this time. I found these LED lighted Caps at Academy Sports and I think I'll try these instead of separate amber lights.. looks like it should be an easy install. |
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Post by Juan on Nov 16, 2017 18:42:34 GMT -6
Juan I added the led(went all led for all lights) Kept old ones and plan on just adding a led bulb in them for additional bumper lighting on my car hauler , wired to main line at same place rear red is in pipe up high. Yep screwed not glued. rubber grommet pops out with coaxing. Use dish soap if problem to get back in. you can get new soft rubber grommets for cheap on ebay. Thanks, Good deal! I couldn't remember if the red LEDs popped out or not.. I'll try it again with a bit more effort this time. I found these LED lighted Caps at Academy Sports and I think I'll try these instead of separate amber lights.. looks like it should be an easy install. Added the LED caps on top of the guide posts. Easiest install..wired them to the oval LEDs in the posts and it took less than 30 minutes. Has the amber LEDs facing forward and red ones to the rear.  While was at it, added a few more lights to the truck too  |
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