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Post by Juan on Aug 29, 2018 4:10:59 GMT -6
What ever it's called, are all the tabs on Suzuki outboards painted? I think every other outboard I've ever owned had a sacrificial zinc anode trim tab designed to deter corrosion. My DF150 doesn't. It's painted and I'm having a hard time understanding why it's not like the others.  |
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gtinga
Petty Officer
Posts: 234 
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Post by gtinga on Aug 29, 2018 8:30:33 GMT -6
Juan, Mine is painted also, 2016 DF 115. I do have a sacrificial anode directly above it. It appears you do also, more forward than mine. it shows up as black in your photo. Perhaps Suzuki realized that as the sacrificial is consumed the handling of the boat would change, as it would again when replaced, hopefully in the same position. This theory may change after another cup of coffee however.
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985crabs
Captain
2000 V1900 Bay Series, Yamaha 150 Carb. 2
Posts: 1,309
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Post by 985crabs on Aug 29, 2018 9:12:49 GMT -6
That is somewhat peculiar. Is it even zinc, and thus, sacrificial? Maybe the little black thing is your sacrificial anode. I guess you'd have to look up the replacement part description and what the deal is. I don't think it will do its job if it painted.
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Post by gnrphil on Aug 29, 2018 9:21:54 GMT -6
My Johnson was the same, there's another anode on the lower unit that the Yamaha's don't have. I think gtinga has a good point.
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Post by Juan on Aug 29, 2018 14:43:19 GMT -6
Juan, Mine is painted also, 2016 DF 115. I do have a sacrificial anode directly above it. It appears you do also, more forward than mine. it shows up as black in your photo. Perhaps Suzuki realized that as the sacrificial is consumed the handling of the boat would change, as it would again when replaced, hopefully in the same position. This theory may change after another cup of coffee however. Yep that is an anode and there's another one on the other side so your theory makes a lot of sense... and the trim tab might effect handling on some boats but it is so small it doesn't effect the handling on at all on mine. I've moved it and placed it as straight as I can and moved it to the far left and right and I can't tell a bit of difference in handling so I would think it should / could be used as an anode since it's useless as anything else IMO. I did a search of the parts list and there isn't a trim tab anode listed so I guess it's not zinc. I did find that there are 4 or 5 other anodes in the block and power head that need checking annually that I didn't know were there. Now I just have to find them. |
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Post by freezerfiller on Aug 31, 2018 15:05:04 GMT -6
They look like a teardrop. Mine has 5 of them on the head and block. I've ordered mine and plan to replace them soon.
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Post by Juan on Aug 31, 2018 15:55:11 GMT -6
They look like a teardrop. Mine has 5 of them on the head and block. I've ordered mine and plan to replace them soon. Do you know where they are? Those anodes are the only real reason I'm about to buy a service manual. Did you order them individually? Have you seen these service kits? suzukioutboardmarine.com/product/17400-96821-df150175-suzuki-maintenance-kit-copy/ Includes everything needed for a complete service to include water pump, spark plugs, oil filter, anodes and more for a lot less than they cost individually. I'll be ordering one soon. |
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gtinga
Petty Officer
Posts: 234
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Post by gtinga on Aug 31, 2018 19:02:54 GMT -6
Juan, I think the anodes come as a complete replacement set rather than individually. My dealer replaces them at every 100 hour service.
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Post by Juan on Sept 1, 2018 3:55:31 GMT -6
Juan, I think the anodes come as a complete replacement set rather than individually. My dealer replaces them at every 100 hour service. I think the five aluminum anodes in the block and power head come as part of the complete set when you buy the service kit but you can buy the zinc anodes individually since some wear out quicker than others. I plan to buy the 100 hour service kit and do the service myself and if I believe the kit comes with everything needed except oil. |
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Post by freezerfiller on Sept 1, 2018 9:54:55 GMT -6
Juan, I called shields and they sent me the 5 on the engine individually with the filter and drain plug washer. I just finished swapping them out, and they needed it. I found a sixth one on the port side under the engine when I trimmed it up. Luckily that one looked like new, so I'll leave that one as is. To change the zincs, you'll need a 12mm socket to remove the bolt, then just gently pry the teardrop cover off, Then I used a tiny flat head screwdriver to dig out all of the corrosion so I could access the 8mm head bolt that holds the zinc to the cover. I picked up the crc marine spray from Academy and sprayed the threads of the bolts before reinstalling. Just be careful not to damage the O-rings. After you change the oil, turn on the ignition and pull out the e-stop button three times, and it will reset the change oil alarm. That kit might be the way to go. I paid $28 for the 5 anodes, $35 for the external anode on the mounting bracket (which is not included in that kit), and $4 for the gearcase washer. ...and $20 shipping.
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Post by Juan on Sept 1, 2018 12:55:01 GMT -6
Thanks Freezer. I changed the engine and lower unit oil last November at 20 hours and I'm now just under 60. I'm going to change everything at 100 hours so I still have some time. I already have the oil and I'm ordering the service kit so I should have everything I need when I reach 100 hours other than the external anodes and I think the small ones come in the kit.
I was told that the anodes in the block and power head are aluminum instead of zinc. They said the aluminum is better than zinc. Are they aluminum? I haven't looked for them yet so I need to pull the cowling and see if I can find them.. If I can find them all, I won't need the service manual to locate them.
Don't you run mainly in freshwater? Do you have the zinc or magnesium anodes?
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Post by freezerfiller on Sept 2, 2018 9:10:58 GMT -6
I ordered the ones for saltwater, which I believe are zinc. Although I only go saltwater 2-3 times a year, I spend on average more hours in saltwater than I do freshwater since I go for a solid week or extended weekend when I do go.
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Post by Juan on Sept 2, 2018 10:47:57 GMT -6
That makes sense. I'm gonna have to do some googling to see if the anodes in the head and block are actually aluminum instead of zinc. If aluminum anodes are better than zinc at keeping corrosion down, I wonder if that's why yours "needed" changing? How many hours did you have on it when you changed the engine anodes? At about 60, I haven't even looked for the engine anodes and maybe I should.
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Post by freezerfiller on Sept 2, 2018 17:30:43 GMT -6
100 hours. I would guess they are good for 200, but I'm not taking any chances. I'm not a metallurgist, but I know they aren't aluminum. maybe zinc, maybe magnesium.
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