cajunmike80
Sailor
Posts: 3
Sea Pro model and year: sv2100cc 2004
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Post by cajunmike80 on Jun 27, 2020 19:18:40 GMT -6
i recently purchased a new terrova 112lb thrust trolling motor and have been struggling trying do decide how to mount it securely. Especially since i dont have access but to 1 of the 4 bolt holes. I currently have it mounted with only 1/4" toggle bolts. Im wondering if those will be sufficient for the amount of thrust and torque of this trolling motor? I also must add that i don't feel 100 percent comfortable with these bolts from jump street but it seemed to be my only solution besides using the rubber motor guide bolts that have terrible reviews everywhere i look. Can someone help me out ??
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Post by Juan on Jun 28, 2020 4:56:18 GMT -6
I have the same boat with an Ulterra and it wasn't easy but got all four mounting bolts through the base after fabricating an extension to a wrench. I'm pretty sure the bolt pattern is identical to a Terrova. Why can you only get access to one? I'd want to use stainless steel mounting bolts with a lock nut underneath. Didn't the Terrova come with stainless steel bolts? btw: Welcome to the forum.  |
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yankee
Petty Officer
Posts: 220
Sea Pro model and year: 1999 SV1900CC
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Post by yankee on Jun 28, 2020 8:24:18 GMT -6
I'm not sure of your situation, but when I mounted my TM I had no access to any of the bolts from the underside reaching into my anchor well. I used a long piece of heat shrink tubing that I fished down through the drilled holes and out my anchor well, heated the shrink to the end of the bolt and pulled the bolt up through the hole. Worked great, with no issues at all. I was using a quick release mounting plate which enabled me to cut the bolt off to clear the TM sliding onto the plate. Also, don't forget to install a fender washer onto your bolt before putting the shrink on. I bought the heat shrink from Harbor Freight. It comes in 4' rolls.
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Post by Juan on Jun 28, 2020 10:07:23 GMT -6
I'm not sure of your situation, but when I mounted my TM I had no access to any of the bolts from the underside reaching into my anchor well. I used a long piece of heat shrink tubing that I fished down through the drilled holes and out my anchor well, heated the shrink to the end of the bolt and pulled the bolt up through the hole. Worked great, with no issues at all. I was using a quick release mounting plate which enabled me to cut the bolt off to clear the TM sliding onto the plate. Also, don't forget to install a fender washer onto your bolt before putting the shrink on. I bought the heat shrink from Harbor Freight. It comes in 4' rolls. That's ingenious! Wished I had thought of that. Would have saved a few bloody knuckles and the nuts would be on the top side where they're easier to get to. |
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985crabs
Captain
2000 V1900 Bay Series, Yamaha 150 Carb. 2
Posts: 1,309
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Post by 985crabs on Jun 29, 2020 7:05:45 GMT -6
This is a brilliant strategy. How did you tighten the nuts onto the bolts if you had no access from underneath?
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Post by freezerfiller on Jun 29, 2020 9:40:12 GMT -6
I was able to reach inside my anchor locker and there was a gap near the top that gave me access to all of my bolts.
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Post by Simple Man on Jun 29, 2020 10:07:39 GMT -6
I was able to reach through the anchor locker as well. It's a two man job and you need to tape the washer and nut into a long box end wrench to reach the front ones.
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yankee
Petty Officer
Posts: 220
Sea Pro model and year: 1999 SV1900CC
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Post by yankee on Jun 29, 2020 17:12:43 GMT -6
Knowing that I was going to cut the bolts off for clearance, I just grabbed the upper end of the threads with a pair of channel locks and tightened the nut down.
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yankee
Petty Officer
Posts: 220
Sea Pro model and year: 1999 SV1900CC
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Post by yankee on Jun 29, 2020 17:14:58 GMT -6
I also thought of cutting a slot in the bolt end to fit a slotted screw driver to aid in tightening the nut down. This would have been an easy task also.
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985crabs
Captain
2000 V1900 Bay Series, Yamaha 150 Carb. 2
Posts: 1,309
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Post by 985crabs on Jun 30, 2020 8:38:21 GMT -6
Gotcha. Stored in brain for future use.
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mosquito13
Lieutenant
Posts: 788 
Location: the other West Coast
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Post by mosquito13 on Jun 30, 2020 22:05:13 GMT -6
use a long box end wrench and electrician tape the bolts in the wrench from the bottom leaving the top of the nut open. . I like to super glue the washers to the on my nuts. Don't rush the glue let it dry overnight.
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mosquito13
Lieutenant
Posts: 788
Location: the other West Coast
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Post by mosquito13 on Jun 30, 2020 22:09:55 GMT -6
Minn Kotta advises against using a quick release plate with the 110lb motors with the long shafts. That said I used one and have had no issues . should this get moved to the trolling motor section to make it ez'r to find for future reference? |
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Post by Juan on Jul 1, 2020 5:07:05 GMT -6
Minn Kotta advises against using a quick release plate with the 110lb motors with the long shafts. That said I used one and have had no issues . should this get moved to the trolling motor section to make it ez'r to find for future reference?  |
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mosquito13
Lieutenant
Posts: 788
Location: the other West Coast
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Post by mosquito13 on Jul 25, 2020 20:36:51 GMT -6
I was up messing with my trolling motor wiring and remembered this post. I installed a 4" round access plate right above the anchor locker on the transition when I installed the trolling motor quick release bracket and tied in the bitter end of the anchor rode to backside of bow eye. tight but gives access.
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cajunmike80
Sailor
Posts: 3
Sea Pro model and year: sv2100cc 2004
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Post by cajunmike80 on Aug 18, 2020 21:05:37 GMT -6
Update
I ended up ordering a hatch cover and cut a hole in the bow on the deck. Made access no problem with a 6" hole. Hahaha. I originally did not want to do that but after the fact it came out great and looks slick as well. Thank you guys!
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