Post by WaterDog on Jul 8, 2021 14:44:34 GMT -6
So the project, a 1996 Sea Pro 190cc w/150 Mercury OB and Performance trailer.
I apologize in advance for the lack of pictures. I am kicking myself in the butt at the moment but future pics will be added. I figure sense I have to make a list of repairs I might as well do it here for my reference and if it helps others it's a plus. Also if anyone has a better way of doing something, please by all means let me know!
Let me say this about the boat, it's not junk but has a lot of junk on it that needs replacing. Honestly this is a 1996 Hull and I can't find any stress cracks! The transom is solid. I stood on the engine and it wouldn't flex at all. The floor is rock solid as well. The engine is a 2007 Merc 150XL with 125-PSI in all cylinders and clean lube in the lower end. So I believe I am off to a solid start. BTW I got it dirt cheap but that won't last long with the items needed.
Issue's that need to be addressed.
The biggest issue was the Hull/Deck separation on the port side. The rub rail rivets had popped leaving it hanging, a dead giveaway to a underlying issue. This has been repaired using the method posted here. I don't believe I will have any issue in the future. This is a rock solid fix, tried and true.
The Trailer
Trailer lights required a total replace and rewire. I decided to go with this kit and went the extra yard by taking them apart and sealing them with 100% pure silicone. I am so tired of working on trailer lights.
The Winch had a bald spot on the gears so that needed replacement. This was one I missed while surveying the boat. I bought the 2000-lb dual drive Silver EDC model. I have used this same one before and it never gave me any issue although I did spray it down with Cold Galvanized spray paint and lubed the gears with QS Marine bearing grease.
The tires are in good shape including the spare.
Wiring, all gauges work but everything else (radio's, GPS, Sonar) do not. Found the issue, the previous owner had a ground wired to a power feed. Luckily this blew the main fuse and everything works now. I removed all the electronics including the wiring. I will be repairing all the holes in the console and upgrading to a Chart Plotter combo.
I ordered this Fuse Block and will be mounting it in the CC on the door for easy access. I just can't see myself having a issue on the water and climbing in the console in ruff sea's. This will be a little tricky because the wires will be required to move when the door is opened and wires don't like that. I have done something similar in the past and feel confident I can do it without any issues in the long run. There will be pics!
The main battery terminals are shot and need replacing.
This Dual Battery Isolator will be installed soon.
The Bilge Pump needs the inline fuse replaced.
The Battery's. One is like new and the other can be used as a stern anchor.
OTHER
The gauge panel is faded and needs to be taken apart and painted. I decided to go with a white and teal combo for the boat. As long as I can find vinyl paint in teal for the seat cushions. I would like to stripe them.
The Horn needs replacing but these never seem to be loud enough so I decided to carry a can of air horn. These do the job!
The steering needs to be bleed. It's hydraulic and feels good except for a little play. Bleeding the system should solve this issue.
The engine controls seem fine except I will need to buy a replacement cover.
The T-Top is a cheap aftermarket but after taking it apart and cleaning it I feel it will work just fine. I scrubbed the hell out of the canvas and after it dried sprayed it with a fabric water proofing agent. After the boat is cleaned and waxed I will reinstall and lace it up.
One Access Hatch was cracked and not repairable so I replaced it with a perfect match.
The FM Radio will be moved from the glove box and installed in the center console. I would toss it altogether but wifey will want to hear some music when we take the family out. You know, happy wife...
The Speakers were trashed. I ordered a cheap set that should fit perfectly in the not so profession wholes cut out for them. I don't use the FM radio much while fishing, the sound of my surroundings are music to my ears and that extra money saved can go to a better fish finder.
The Pedestal Seats looked bad from the start but I suspected they were a cheap fix and I was right. They are in the garage awaiting parts to arrive.
The Marine Radio needs a replacement antenna and I wanted something that won't interfere with my fishing so I gave up some range and bought a three footer that will attach to the T-Top out of the way.
Elbow Grease.
The bottom needs scraping, not much but I have to get a few barneys before I paint. So prep and paint is on the list but first I will have to compound and wax the hull to prevent streaking the new paint. The deck I do not compound, I just don't like being blinded by the boat so... I use a green scotch bright and soapy water until I don't see milky water, rinse, dry and wax. So the boat is protected and looks clean but I can see without dark sunglasses. I have removed every screw and bolt from the transom except for the engine mounts and I plan I doing this to the whole boat so I can reseal with 3m 4200. I was shown a trick years ago and will pass it on here. When I reseal large items like rod holders and such I remove, clean the item and boat and set a bead on the item, then put it in place lightly secured. Wait a day and tighten it down. This creates a gasket between the two instead of a little bead that last much longer and looks professional.
The stainless on the boat is in great condition, no pitting, rust etc. Those who say Sea Pro's are in the same category as Bayliner's need their heads examined. BTW I have never seen a boat this old without any stress cracks. Who knows maybe this thing has been a bay boat all it's life and never seen a wave. Well we will find out very soon.
I plan on adding two underwater LED lights on the transom and more in the boat itself once I figure out how I will install them, I just hate drilling holes in a transom. If you have upgraded to LED's and really like them let me know what you used.
Side note: some may think I like Amazon and I do but I also like to support my local brick and mortar when possible, they just make it so damn hard at times. Here's a example, I ran short on 3m 5200 during a project and needed it NOW so off to my local supplier I went. Oh the price we pay for I need it now! $40.00 for a tube that cost me half that online. Seriously, half! We all know the old acronym for boat. Break Out Another Thousand but I just can't through money to the wind when I need more fishing toys... err tools.
Family Time
Today my younger son gave me some time and we were able to remove the lower unit and replace the water pump then reinstall. I wanted him to know how to do this himself properly sense he loves boating/fishing. Yes, YouTube is loaded with information but it's not all good. I watched six video's on how to replace a lower unit water-pump and found five ways to do it wrong. My son likes to know exactly what we are doing so I thought a video would do the trick. Here's a clue, if the upper and lower doesn't mate up without a gap you done something wrong. DO NOT use the bolts to marry the two...Please. Go back and remove the grease you put on the top of the shaft that created the hydraulic lock.
We also replaced the lower unit gear lube and that broken down winch with the new one that arrived today.
It looks like we are in for some bad weather starting tonight and all tomorrow so updates will come in a few days. I plan on uploading before and after boat pics and the wiring job to be done also so stay tuned.
I apologize in advance for the lack of pictures. I am kicking myself in the butt at the moment but future pics will be added. I figure sense I have to make a list of repairs I might as well do it here for my reference and if it helps others it's a plus. Also if anyone has a better way of doing something, please by all means let me know!
Let me say this about the boat, it's not junk but has a lot of junk on it that needs replacing. Honestly this is a 1996 Hull and I can't find any stress cracks! The transom is solid. I stood on the engine and it wouldn't flex at all. The floor is rock solid as well. The engine is a 2007 Merc 150XL with 125-PSI in all cylinders and clean lube in the lower end. So I believe I am off to a solid start. BTW I got it dirt cheap but that won't last long with the items needed.
Issue's that need to be addressed.
The biggest issue was the Hull/Deck separation on the port side. The rub rail rivets had popped leaving it hanging, a dead giveaway to a underlying issue. This has been repaired using the method posted here. I don't believe I will have any issue in the future. This is a rock solid fix, tried and true.
The Trailer
Trailer lights required a total replace and rewire. I decided to go with this kit and went the extra yard by taking them apart and sealing them with 100% pure silicone. I am so tired of working on trailer lights.
The Winch had a bald spot on the gears so that needed replacement. This was one I missed while surveying the boat. I bought the 2000-lb dual drive Silver EDC model. I have used this same one before and it never gave me any issue although I did spray it down with Cold Galvanized spray paint and lubed the gears with QS Marine bearing grease.
The tires are in good shape including the spare.
Wiring, all gauges work but everything else (radio's, GPS, Sonar) do not. Found the issue, the previous owner had a ground wired to a power feed. Luckily this blew the main fuse and everything works now. I removed all the electronics including the wiring. I will be repairing all the holes in the console and upgrading to a Chart Plotter combo.
I ordered this Fuse Block and will be mounting it in the CC on the door for easy access. I just can't see myself having a issue on the water and climbing in the console in ruff sea's. This will be a little tricky because the wires will be required to move when the door is opened and wires don't like that. I have done something similar in the past and feel confident I can do it without any issues in the long run. There will be pics!
The main battery terminals are shot and need replacing.
This Dual Battery Isolator will be installed soon.
The Bilge Pump needs the inline fuse replaced.
The Battery's. One is like new and the other can be used as a stern anchor.
OTHER
The gauge panel is faded and needs to be taken apart and painted. I decided to go with a white and teal combo for the boat. As long as I can find vinyl paint in teal for the seat cushions. I would like to stripe them.
The Horn needs replacing but these never seem to be loud enough so I decided to carry a can of air horn. These do the job!
The steering needs to be bleed. It's hydraulic and feels good except for a little play. Bleeding the system should solve this issue.
The engine controls seem fine except I will need to buy a replacement cover.
The T-Top is a cheap aftermarket but after taking it apart and cleaning it I feel it will work just fine. I scrubbed the hell out of the canvas and after it dried sprayed it with a fabric water proofing agent. After the boat is cleaned and waxed I will reinstall and lace it up.
One Access Hatch was cracked and not repairable so I replaced it with a perfect match.
The FM Radio will be moved from the glove box and installed in the center console. I would toss it altogether but wifey will want to hear some music when we take the family out. You know, happy wife...
The Speakers were trashed. I ordered a cheap set that should fit perfectly in the not so profession wholes cut out for them. I don't use the FM radio much while fishing, the sound of my surroundings are music to my ears and that extra money saved can go to a better fish finder.
The Pedestal Seats looked bad from the start but I suspected they were a cheap fix and I was right. They are in the garage awaiting parts to arrive.
The Marine Radio needs a replacement antenna and I wanted something that won't interfere with my fishing so I gave up some range and bought a three footer that will attach to the T-Top out of the way.
Elbow Grease.
The bottom needs scraping, not much but I have to get a few barneys before I paint. So prep and paint is on the list but first I will have to compound and wax the hull to prevent streaking the new paint. The deck I do not compound, I just don't like being blinded by the boat so... I use a green scotch bright and soapy water until I don't see milky water, rinse, dry and wax. So the boat is protected and looks clean but I can see without dark sunglasses. I have removed every screw and bolt from the transom except for the engine mounts and I plan I doing this to the whole boat so I can reseal with 3m 4200. I was shown a trick years ago and will pass it on here. When I reseal large items like rod holders and such I remove, clean the item and boat and set a bead on the item, then put it in place lightly secured. Wait a day and tighten it down. This creates a gasket between the two instead of a little bead that last much longer and looks professional.
The stainless on the boat is in great condition, no pitting, rust etc. Those who say Sea Pro's are in the same category as Bayliner's need their heads examined. BTW I have never seen a boat this old without any stress cracks. Who knows maybe this thing has been a bay boat all it's life and never seen a wave. Well we will find out very soon.
I plan on adding two underwater LED lights on the transom and more in the boat itself once I figure out how I will install them, I just hate drilling holes in a transom. If you have upgraded to LED's and really like them let me know what you used.
Side note: some may think I like Amazon and I do but I also like to support my local brick and mortar when possible, they just make it so damn hard at times. Here's a example, I ran short on 3m 5200 during a project and needed it NOW so off to my local supplier I went. Oh the price we pay for I need it now! $40.00 for a tube that cost me half that online. Seriously, half! We all know the old acronym for boat. Break Out Another Thousand but I just can't through money to the wind when I need more fishing toys... err tools.
Family Time
Today my younger son gave me some time and we were able to remove the lower unit and replace the water pump then reinstall. I wanted him to know how to do this himself properly sense he loves boating/fishing. Yes, YouTube is loaded with information but it's not all good. I watched six video's on how to replace a lower unit water-pump and found five ways to do it wrong. My son likes to know exactly what we are doing so I thought a video would do the trick. Here's a clue, if the upper and lower doesn't mate up without a gap you done something wrong. DO NOT use the bolts to marry the two...Please. Go back and remove the grease you put on the top of the shaft that created the hydraulic lock.
We also replaced the lower unit gear lube and that broken down winch with the new one that arrived today.
It looks like we are in for some bad weather starting tonight and all tomorrow so updates will come in a few days. I plan on uploading before and after boat pics and the wiring job to be done also so stay tuned.
