Axle change out

[gtinga]

Replaced a torsion bar 3500 lb axle on my trailer yesterday, a fairly straight forward job that took about 1 1/2 hours after I had the materials gathered.  A couple of tips I'd pass on to those who may want to do the same:

   Jackstands are a must, I used 2.

   2 jacks are a huge help, floor preferred.

   An auto mechanics creeper, a huge help!

   Penetrating oil, I used PB Blaster.

   Get an axle that has the same mounting hole spacing as the original. Makes life so much easier!

A couple of days before the planned replacement start hitting the mounting bolts with the PB Blaster, they were assembled with air tools and tough to get off.

Get the trailer on jackstands, best done on concrete.

Pop off the tires and hubs.

Bust loose the mounting bolts, mine had 4, 5/8".

Get the jacks snug under the axle and remove the nuts.

Using the jacks lower the axle onto the creeper and roll it out. When you lower the old and remount the new do so evenly a couple of inches at a time per side. No need to get under the trailer!  

Reverse rolling the new axle under the trailer on the creeper and then lifting into place using the jacks, bolt it up and remount the tires and hubs if the bearings and seals are good, if not replace.   

   I'm pushing 70 so I didn't rush things in the heat but it went easier than I expected. Saved $200 the trailer place wanted to do the job.  Bought some Yuengling with my savings.  You can too!

[Juan]

Thanks gtinga. I've been considering changing out my torsion axles for a while now. They're still working but the torsion part of the axles are badly rusted and starting to worry me. I've never tried to change an axle so not sure I want to try it myself (plus I'm already 70 ) and I'd have to tow the boat and trailer 70 miles and leave it at the trailer place to get it done so doing it myself may be the ticket. I don't have a creeper but do have the jacks and other tools to do the job.
Is your trailer a single axle? How much harder would it be to change both axles on a tandem trailer?
Where did you get the axles and hardware? Is the hardware stainless?
What do you measure to be sure you order the correct axles? I'm guessing if you get the exact replacement, alignment isn't required?
This might be a job I can do during the winter.
$200 is a lot of Yuengling!

[gtinga]

Juan, to answer a couple of your questions:
Mine is a tandem axle Road King about 20 years old, I only replaced the rear axle, the front is in suprisingly good shape.
I got the axle at a local trailer parts dealer, got it for about the same money as an on-line source minus delivery charges then got a military discount!
Key measurements were width of frame inside to inside and out to out, distance between mounting bolts centerlines width and between fore and aft, axle width hub face to hub face and/or width of brake mounting flanges side to side. Also capacity, 3500 lbs, and angle of the arm, usually 20 or 35 degrees, mine is 35. I found an exact match with an Eliminator # 46394, 93"HF, 80"OB, 35 deg down. I think it is a Dexter product. If there is a dealer within reasonable distance it would be best to take your measurements to them, maybe fax the numbers to the guy 70 miles out, see what he can do and then go pick them up. Also take pictures on your cell phone when you go.
I would think if you don't have a creeper a furniture moving dolly would work, Harbor Freight.
My mounting bolts were stainless 5/8 x 1 1/2". couldn't find any so I reused the old ones. Trailer dealer said 1/2" would do but I didn't like the slop and potential alignment problems so used the originals which were in good shape. My bolts were tough to get broken loose but a couple of days soak with the PB Blaster and a 1/2" breaker bar with 2' cheater finally got them.
Doing both axles at once would,in my mind, be a bit hairy unless you can find a place to dock the boat for a day or two. If you can do that it would be great to work on a "bare" trailer. Hope this helps! Yell with more ?s when they come up. Take care.

[Juan]

Mine is also a tandem Road King about 16 years old. The trailer shop is close to where I plan to fish tomorrow so I'm going to run it by there tomorrow afternoon for a price quote.

[gtinga]

It may very well be the same trailer. When you go, take the part info from above, they may be able to match it from dealer stock. My guy said prices will be going up soon, may be true, may be a sales pitch. Had a weird thought last night after I mentioned docking your boat to work on the trailer, how big is your pond? Might be a handy place to put the boat for a day or two, put in a short ramp and you'd have a great place to dunk the rig after a fishing trip to flush the salt out of the trailer and flush the motor. Also make for some good photos for this years Christmas cards. Best of luck with the trailer guy.

[Juan]

It could be the same trailer but mine had leaf springs when it was new and I had them removed and replaced with the torsion axles a long time ago. The data plate on the trailer says GVWR is 5400 lbs, 2700 front and 2700 rear but I'm sure that rating was for the leaf springs and I have no idea what the torsion axles rating is so I'll have a few questions for the trailer shop. I've considered launching boats in the pond before and I could probably do it but it drops off pretty quick and I'm afraid the trailer might get stuck and I'd never get it out.
Thanks again.

[985crabs]

I've done the springs a couple of times and the axle once. Gtinga has laid out some crucial steps for success here. Good advice.

I would add that the hardware for attaching springs/axles is not expensive and one can save a lot of aggravation by simply cutting the old off with a grinder and replacing.

[Juan]

Well I tried fishing this morning and caught a few trout and a gar but the water is still badly stained and there's grass floating everywhere so I quit early and stopped by the trailer shop. The best price I've seen online for 3500 lb torsion axles was $699 each and the trailer shop in Panama City's price is $640 per axle and another $100 per axle for installation... so it was a no brainer... 2 new "made in Pittsburg USA" (not China) 3500 lb torsion axles with new stainless hardware and some kind of special washer that retards rust, with new hubs..mounted and ready to go = $1,500. I left the boat at the shop and it should be ready late Thursday or Friday and I didn't have to break a sweat or get any bloody knuckles.

[gtinga]

Good deal! As a bonus, if you get there Friday morning you can still get in the better part of a days fishing.

[freezerfiller]

My trailer springs are getting suspect. How hard is the conversion to torsion axles?

[Juan]

Sept 8, 2021 16:03:43 GMT -6 freezerfiller said:

My trailer springs are getting suspect. How hard is the conversion to torsion axles?

I had a trailer shop replace the springs with torsion axles on my trailer probably 12 - 14 years ago and the difference in ride and benefits were amazing. Since the shop did all the work, I can't say how hard the conversion was to do but it looks to me like the new axles just bolt in place to existing holes. I would think the hard part would be manhandling the old axles out and bolting the new ones in place. If you do it or have it done, according to the trailer shop guy, there are washers that cost under $2.00 ea. that will prevent the corrosion between the galvanized and aluminum parts that most shops don't use. Apparently the shop that replaced mine years ago was one of those who didn't install the washers.

[Juan]

The trailer was ready late yesterday (Thursday) so I picked up the boat and trailer with new torsion axles this morning. I was impressed that it was ready when he said it would be. For me, it's hard to find anyone who does good work and what they say they'll do lately. I was impressed.. The trailer seems to pull better now but it might be my imagination. At least the rusty axles are gone and I got what I think was a great deal... even got a big discount for paying with cash.
These are just cell phone pics but here's the old axles: