yankee
Petty Officer
Posts: 220
Sea Pro model and year: 1999 SV1900CC
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Post by yankee on Oct 5, 2021 13:44:34 GMT -6
Right now I have one sensor on the stbd side. Nothing on the port side. If the port side is required for the temp guage, where would the wires hook up to? Also, the port side looks like a small bullet type connector and the stbd side has either a post connector or a bullet type connector. Would I need the bullet type to connect with the port side sensor?
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Post by Juan on Oct 5, 2021 15:56:40 GMT -6
One sensor (Starboard side) is for a buzzer alarm. (item #10 in the link I provided earlier) The other sensor (Port side) (item # 17) is for an analog gauge. Not all motors had both gauges so I'm guessing your motor has only a buzzer alarm. You can connect a sensor to the port side and add a gauge to your console. Not sure but I'm pretty sure the required wiring is already in the wiring harness and I think it's tan/blue. You might try checking YouTube videos for better info. A quick check and I see there are a few YouTube videos on how to install a gauge and sensors.
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yankee
Petty Officer
Posts: 220
Sea Pro model and year: 1999 SV1900CC
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Post by yankee on Oct 6, 2021 8:23:49 GMT -6
I have the stbd sensor and a new alarm buzzer ordered. I can get those installed and keep looking for a clear wiring diagram for a temp. guage. That will at the very least give some sort of monitoring of my water temp to prevent from overheating again.
Still waiting on the pump kit. I have not opened up the lower unit yet but am getting anxious to see what might be going on inside the pump. Thanks for all your insight into this problem.
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Post by Juan on Oct 6, 2021 11:29:22 GMT -6
Good luck. Let us know what you find when you tear it apart. I don't know how the impeller would start working the way it should just by shutting off the motor and waiting a few minutes. To me it still sounds like you said: "something floating in the coolant passages" and if it were mine, I'd still remove the thermostat covers and turn the engine over just long enough to tell if the water pump is pumping as it should and it might blow any obstruction out. Can't hurt and it might save you the trouble of replacing a perfectly good impeller.
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yankee
Petty Officer
Posts: 220
Sea Pro model and year: 1999 SV1900CC
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Post by yankee on Oct 7, 2021 7:22:23 GMT -6
I purchased a downloadable manual for my engine and is has all the wiring diagrams for the sensors. I got to looking around the engine and found the necessary wiring from the engine to the helm to wire in a temp guage. Also received the pump kit late yesterday afternoon. While the thermostats were removed I did fire the engine up. I was expecting water from the tell tale immediately without the t-stats, but I got no water at all from the tell tale. Wouldn't this be an indicator to a bad or weak impeller?
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Post by gnrphil on Oct 7, 2021 7:43:57 GMT -6
It could and normally does, could also indicate some form of blockage. Either way water isn't being pumped up to the block and needs to be investigated by removing the lower unit.
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Post by Juan on Oct 7, 2021 11:33:11 GMT -6
While the thermostats were removed I did fire the engine up. I was expecting water from the tell tale immediately without the t-stats, but I got no water at all from the tell tale. Wouldn't this be an indicator to a bad or weak impeller? I agree, You should have gotten water from the tell tale with the thermostats removed and since you didn't it's either a bad impeller or a blockage. Your earlier comments about it working as it should again after it sits for a few minutes makes me think it could be a blockage. If you ran it with the thermostats removed (and the thermostat covers off) and if the impeller is pumping as it should, water would flow out where the thermostats go. If no water exits from the thermostat holes, it's time to drop the lower unit. It may be a long shot but if you're lucky a blockage might also flow out of the same holes. IMO, it's worth a try and might save dropping the lower unit to install a new impeller.
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yankee
Petty Officer
Posts: 220
Sea Pro model and year: 1999 SV1900CC
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Post by yankee on Oct 7, 2021 12:09:39 GMT -6
I pulled the lower unit, impeller looked ok, a bit stiff & small amount of wear. The water tube came out with the drive shaft and I don't think it should have. I put it back up into the upper unit, but it fits very loosely. With out a doubt, I am losing some water pressure there. And so much play (about an inch) making lining up the water tube with the pump tube almost impossible. Also, no signs of any type of sealant between the upper unit and lower unit. Does this area need to be sealed?
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Post by gnrphil on Oct 7, 2021 12:17:31 GMT -6
I'm not experienced with Mercs but I believe the water tube should stay in the leg when you drop the lower unit, at least it does on Yamaha's, and there shouldn't be that much play. Maybe there's a seal or grommet up there that's failed. No there shouldn't be any sealant on the lower unit.
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Post by Juan on Oct 7, 2021 15:11:00 GMT -6
The way it acted is starting to make sense.. I agree with phil. There shouldn't be much play on the water tube. I think there's a grommet in the upper housing and a seal on the water pump housing that hold it in place. If the grommet is gone or the seal where the tube fits into the water pump housing is worn, I'm thinking the water pressure from the impeller at high rpms might move the water tube enough to miss the coolant passages and stop peeing then when you stopped the motor, the tube would settle back into place for a while until the rpms increased again. Just my guess.
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Post by gnrphil on Oct 7, 2021 16:21:08 GMT -6
The way it acted is starting to make sense.. I agree with phil. There shouldn't be much play on the water tube. I think there's a grommet in the upper housing and a seal on the water pump housing that hold it in place. If the grommet is gone or the seal where the tube fits into the water pump housing is worn, I'm thinking the water pressure from the impeller at high rpms might move the water tube enough to miss the coolant passages and stop peeing then when you stopped the motor, the tube would settle back into place for a while until the rpms increased again. Just my guess. Seems plausible to me too. Edit: I don't know how the word "plausible" popped into my limited vocabulary, for all I know I've used it wrong.
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yankee
Petty Officer
Posts: 220
Sea Pro model and year: 1999 SV1900CC
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Post by yankee on Oct 8, 2021 7:57:27 GMT -6
I got the lower unit back on yesterday with the new impeller and fired her up. I have very low water pressure now, not enough to keep a steady stream from the tell tale. Even the lower weep hole near the prop took some time to get a weak stream of steady water. I'm sure it has something to do with the water tube. From what I can tell, the tube is "squeezed" in between the upper and lower tube seals. One end of my water tube is fairly bad from corrosion. This is the end that goes into the pump. I placed this end down because it is corroded enough to not stay in the fitting up inside the motor leg. I'm going to tear back into it today and see if I figure out what's going on. I'll update soon. Thanks again for all your insights.
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Post by Juan on Oct 8, 2021 8:52:53 GMT -6
I think you're on the right track. Let us know what you find. A quick check on parts shows the water tube, grommet and water pump seal less than $50. for all of it. If it's corroded, I'd replace it now rather than later.
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Post by freezerfiller on Oct 8, 2021 18:43:35 GMT -6
good advice. if its corroded go ahead and replace it.
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yankee
Petty Officer
Posts: 220
Sea Pro model and year: 1999 SV1900CC
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Post by yankee on Oct 9, 2021 8:56:09 GMT -6
I pulled the lower unit off yesterday and it looked like the water tube did not get completely seated into the pump housing seal. I fooled around with the tube and the old pump cap and the tube slides inside the rubber seal in the cap. I went ahead and ordered a new water tube and seals. I'm not sure how I am going to replace the upper seal, the lower seal on the pump is incorporated with the pump housing. That's the good news. Took the new pump apart just to inspect everything to make sure I made now mistakes and all looked good. Put everything back together with the pump housing and decided to torque the pump cap nuts to their recommended specs. It wasn't until after the cap had mushroomed and cracked I realized that my torque wrench wasn't reading correctly. So a new pump kit is on its way. Just a small delay and a good lesson learned.
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yankee
Petty Officer
Posts: 220
Sea Pro model and year: 1999 SV1900CC
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Post by yankee on Oct 14, 2021 8:14:20 GMT -6
I have everything installed and back together except for a temp. guage. All is running as normal in the driveway but I will take it to a local lake and give it a good test run before any serious outing. While it was apart, I flushed through the flush port, down through the t-stat openings and into a 5 gal. bucket, but did not see anything that might have flushed out of the system. Also, that first go round of putting the lower unit back on I missed getting the water tube lined up properly in the water pump housing which caused the low pressure. This was my first impeller change, and it was a good learning experience. Once again thanks to this forum and its members for all the mechanical support. It really helps knowing that you can get your questions answered here. Much appreciated.
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Post by Juan on Oct 14, 2021 10:43:06 GMT -6
Great. Sounds like you've got it fixed this time and now you've got the experience to help out the next guy who has a similar problem.
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yankee
Petty Officer
Posts: 220
Sea Pro model and year: 1999 SV1900CC
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Post by yankee on Oct 14, 2021 12:03:50 GMT -6
I'm hoping that its fixed. The old impeller and pump components all looked to be in good shape. The t-stats looked to be in pretty bad shape. I am leaning toward the stats being weak and worn out. The only areas that I did not check thoroughly are the tubing and fittings circulating water from one head over to the other and back down the lower unit. I think I will open those up and just take a look for any rubbish.
Thanks for your support Juan.
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yankee
Petty Officer
Posts: 220
Sea Pro model and year: 1999 SV1900CC
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Post by yankee on Oct 17, 2021 8:26:32 GMT -6
I haven't had her out on the water yet, but have been reading through the repair manual. I read a small insert on the poppet valve. Do these valves fail often or are they fairly stable? The pressure guage to test the poppet valve is upwards of $150 and most talk I find online say that the water pressure testing is a waste of time. Has any one here gone this route?
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Post by Juan on Oct 17, 2021 10:12:22 GMT -6
I've never had a poppet valve fail and considering the intermittent peeing on your outboard, I don't think that's the problem but what do I know? They do fail and since they regulate flow and they're a cheap replacement, why not change it to be sure?
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