Helm control throttle shifts stiff??

[wetcrash3047]

Picked up my 2004 Seaboss 210cc today from my mechanic after spending my annual small fortune in preventative maintainance.

According to mechanic boat is running GREAT and ready for my first trip to Lake Erie next month.

My mechanic did note that the helm control seemed to shift pretty stiff, and that it may be time to replace the shift cables??

When the boat was put away last fall everything seemed normal as far as shifting goes, so I am wondering since the boat is now 11 years old should the cables be replaced? I have not been able to check it myself yet, but was just wondering how tight is too tight??

I can't imagine that anything has changed since last fall when the boat was put in storage.

Any ideas on what to do? Can the cables be lubricated?

Thanks for any help!!!

[yolo]

Type of motor?

[CaptWoody]

It isn't unusual for them to get stiff, and they only get worse. Most can't be lubed.

[wetcrash3047]

the motor is a 2004 Johnson 150

[wetcrash3047]

I had a chance to try the shifter out earlier. It appears as normal to me although when I shifted it earlier this evening the motor was not running.

You mentioned that if it is getting harder to shift that it will likely continue to get worse.

In your experience do they completely seize up, stop shifting and leave a person stranded or is it usually a gradual thing?

As noted above it seems normal to me.

My mechanic does a good job, but he knows that I am a worry wart when it comes to my boat.

Is this something that I should just keep an eye on or bring it in imediately and have the cables replaced??

[gnrphil]

I'd have them changed before it gets worse.

[Juan]

The cable could last forever or it could gradually get worse or even break suddenly depending on if it just needs greasing or if it's rusted...but if it feels the same to you, I wouldn't worry about it ..Sounds to me like it just needs grease but as CaptWoody said, most can't be lubed...(at least the entire cable can't be lubed. Short of replacing the cable the best you can do is to apply a coating of marine grease to the part of the cable you can reach.

How to Lubricate a Boat Throttle Cable
Things You'll Need
Screwdriver
White marine grease
Assistant

Instructions
1
Remove the two screws that hold the faceplate of the throttle remote control in place, with a screwdriver. If you are unable to determine which cable is the throttle cable, wiggle the throttle control handle; the cable that moves is the throttle cable.

2
Remove the brass setscrew holding the end of the cable to the throttle handle. Smear white marine grease on the cable.

3
Set the cable end back in place and tighten the setscrew. Replace the throttle control cover and reinstall the two cover mounting screws, tightening them snugly.

4
Turn the latch on the motor cover to release the cover and set it aside. Have an assistant wiggle the throttle and watch for the cable that moves at the motor. Smear the cable end with white marine grease.

5
Replace the motor cover. Ensure the cover is fully locked in place.

[wetcrash3047]

Does anyone know exactly what set of cables and cable length would be required for a 2004 Seaboss 210cc with a 2004 Johnson 150? What brand would you recommend and what is the approximate cost of the cables?

As far as changing them out exactly what is involved? I changed out the helm control unit either in 2013 or 2014. What is involved in hooking the cables up on the motor end?

What would be the most difficult part? My mechanic said threading the new cables could take some time???

I would rather not change them out at this point primarily due to the expense, but I am going to Lake Erie in May (First time on BIG water) and I do not want a breakdown. I do have a 10HP kicker mounted so I am not as concerned about being stranded on the lake.

[freezerfiller]

I changed mine out 2 years ago, and it was not a big deal. Disconnect both ends, tie a cord to one end, pull the cable out so the cord is fished through the hull. Measure the cable and buy a new one the same length off of Amazon or wherever. tie the cord to the new cable and pull it through, reattach both ends and adjust until it works right. If you don't have hydraulic steering, you might go ahead and replace the steering cable at the same time. They usually go out within a few years of each other...

Oh, and I think if you crawl into the console you can get the brand and part # off the side of the cable (probably Teleflex)

[mcsd63]

There will also be a part number on the engine end. If you can find it and buy the cables you can zip tie the new one to the old one and pull it through.

[yolo]

Freezer, do the johnsons have a tension screw on the throttle shifter?

Before you go changing things out, try adjustments on the tensions!

[freezerfiller]

Apr 6, 2015 9:39:37 GMT -6 yolo said:

Freezer, do the johnsons have a tension screw on the throttle shifter?

Before you go changing things out, try adjustments on the tensions!

Yes they do. Good point, it might just need adjustment, but after 11 years, I think I'd go ahead and change em. icon_captain

[troutslayer]

I haven't been on for awhile but I agree with freezerfiller and capt woody, most cables are not able to be lubed and adjusting them only means there is excessive play in the linkage or the helm control itself. Mine got stiff last year on vacation in the fall. I looked up the cost of cables and didn't hesitate to order new ones and changed them out myself this spring. my 17 ft cables were about 40.00$ apiece plus shipping, took about 2hrs to replace, now all is well and shifting is a smooth as silk. In my experience as a boater ,30 plus years, cables that show signs of resistance, wear etc. are better off replaced because they usually only get worse not better   

[wetcrash3047]

Thank you guys for the input!!

I am biting the bullet and having the cables changed out by the mechanic.

I do have another question though in the process of bringing the boat back to the mechanic this am my bearings on the port side of the trailer froze up and disintegrated while in route. The mechanic is about 37 miles from my home and about miles into the trip someone motioned me to pull over so I did and found the the bearings all but gone and the entire assembly was smoking.

The mechanic changed these bearings only 2 weeks ago on the trailer. I received the old bearings from the mechanic after they were changed out, and I do trust the mechanic as he has been in business for over 30 years, and has worked on my boat for 4 years. What could have happened? The mechanic seems to think that the bearing buddy came off, and the grease spun out, OR possibly a bad bearing??

The mechanic called this afternoon and said the hub was also cracked? He removed what was left of the bearings, checked the axel (I looked at it this am and it did not apear to have been damaged) installed a new hub and new bearings and said all was good!

The mechanic said the axel looked fine. Is it possible that the axel was not damaged?? The mechanic said that the bearing assembly includes chases that slip onto the axel. If there was any damage to the axel would the new bearing assemblies take care of any potential issue?? Could the axel have got hot?

Is there anything to worry about?? I am trailering the boat to Port Clinton Ohio for a 3 day walleye fishing trip on Lake Erie in 3 weeks. It will be a 5 hour (+\- 250 mile) trip each way. Am I worrying to much??

Thank you guys very much for all of your input!!

[Juan]

Is it a single or tandem axle trailer? I believe a 2004 Seaboss 210cc weighs about 2200 pounds and that's without fuel, motor, or equipment.. So if it's a single axle trailer, the weight of the boat could exceed or be pushing the limit of the trailer and that will certainly cause problems with the wheel bearings. Your mechanic sounds like he knows what he's doing and he's right about the chases that ride on the axle.. You probably didn't damage the axle unless the old chases were broken and you should have been able to see any damage to the axle. I think his suggestion that a buddy bearing came off is probably what happened since he should have noticed a bad bearing when he installed the new ones. If the buddy bearing was gone from the hub when you stopped, that more than likely was the reason the bearing went bad, They get hot and go bad real quick without grease

[freezerfiller]

I've had a bearing buddy fall off and made it 80 miles to the Tractor supply in Greenville, AL without any problems other than a mess. I don't doubt that your mechanic swapped out the old bearings, but alot of things could have happened. I would expect him to own up to his work with more than a two week (and likely one trip) warranty.

[CaptWoody]

It is possible that he failed to fully seat the bearing race when he replaced the bearings. When driven the pressure would finish seating the race, leaving the bearings loose. This would then knock the bearing buddy off and create the heat that destroyed the bearing. This is why bearings should be over tightened when installed and then the nut backed off to the proper tension. I've had this happen myself. You should put a few miles on the trailer before your long trip, and then Jack it and try to shake the wheel sideways to see if it is loose (which it should not be. )

[wetcrash3047]

The trailer is a single axel made by Continental. I have seen several Sea Pro and Sea Boss boats on the exact same trailer, but I have them on the tandem axel Continental one as well.

I have contacted Continental and they said that the single axel was sufficient to haul the boat as it does have a 3500# axel (actually rated for 2900#)

My rough calculations have the weight at around 2800# with minimal fuel. I would like to think that when the boat was matched up with a trailer when sold new that the trailer should be assumed sufficient.

I have all but re-built the trailer at this point:

New bunks & support hardware, New leaf springs & hardware, New tires & rims, New wiring & lights, New guide bunks, etc.

The mechanic intalled 1 new hub, new bearing assembly & one new bearing buddy.

P.S. Hub was split/cracked thru on one side with hairline crack in other side!

Thanks for your help, input & KNOWLEDGE!!!!